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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 


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Problems and Projects 

in 

Industrial Arts 



















• 

















* 




















✓ 







< 























Problems and Projects 

in 

Industrial Arts 


BY 

Kenneth R. LaVoy 

»\ 

Instructor in Industrial Arts 
Public Schools of New Rochelle 
New Rochelle, New York 



THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS 


PEORIA, ILLINOIS 















TTiioS 

. L_i3 


COPYRIGHT 1924, KENNETH R. LA VOY 


Acknowledgment is hereby made to Popular Science Monthly, Popu¬ 
lar Mechanics Magazine, Industrial Education Magazine, and The 
Industrial Arts Magazine for permission to use, in modified form, 
articles by the author, which first appeared in their columns. 



Printed in the United States of America 


©CUS ? 5310 


12B-R52 

NOV2125 


Put me in touch with the heart of a boy, 
Let me study his doubts and fears, 

Let me show him the ways of life 
And help him avoid its tears. 

For the heart of a boy in its buoyancy 
Is on-e that is pure and free, 

So put me in touch with the heart of a boy, 
The heart of the man-to-be. 


AS - WHO 

















































■ « 







PREFACE 

T HIS book is designed to offer suggestions and 
problems for information and work in various 
lines of industry which are typical of our modern spe¬ 
cialized workaday world. It is planned especially for 
use in shops having only the average manual training 
equipment, and will also be valuable for use in the 
general shop, and so-called “diversified’’ shops. Wher¬ 
ever practical, opportunity is given for the expression 
of individual ideas in design, and the development of 
originality and initiative in planning and executing the 
various projects. 

It is not expected that the book will be used as a 
text, but rather as a source of suggestions for prob¬ 
lems, with instructions on how to work them out. It 
can be made of inestimable value to the instructor if 
several copies are provided for desk use. Then the 
boy who is interested in electricity or radio can use 
one book; John can be referred to the problems in con¬ 
crete ; Harry and George will want to work out some¬ 
thing in metal; and drawings and perspectives of a 
large variety of useful, purposeful projects will supply 
work for all members of the class* 

To most boys their shop period is one of the most 
enjoyable parts of school life, because in the shop they 
are able to give expression to their own ideas. They 


learn how things are made, and can satisfy their de¬ 
sires to be doing something worth while; and, espe¬ 
cially, they see definite results of their work. The work 
covered, then, should be such as to give them experi¬ 
ence in and knowledge of tool manipulation and meth¬ 
ods of handling materials of construction and manu¬ 
facture. 

Woodworking of various kinds has been the almost 
universal choice when it was thought that only one 
subject could he covered. Wood is used in so many 
ways in our industrial and home life that familiarity 
with tool processes and construction principles gives 
an insight into many occupational fields. It is a most 
satisfactory Industrial Arts subject, if we are to accept 
the conclusion advanced by 0. L. McMurray in his 
book, Teaching of Industrial Arts. He says: 4 ‘The 
Industrial Arts should cover a broader field than any 
single craft, should deal with a variety of constructive 
materials, and carry forward all of a child’s thinking 
into a region of active, constructive effort.” 

Electricity finds a place in an Industrial Arts pro¬ 
gram because most boys are intensely interested in 
things electrical, and delight in experimenting and in 
working out problems. In this subject we shall do well 
not to dampen their early ardor by insisting, as is often 
done, that they master certain formulas and rules. 
As the boy becomes more interested, as he finds that 
further advance is blocked by lack of definite knowl¬ 
edge, he will then he eager to acquire this related in¬ 
formation. A good example of this can be seen in 
the rapidity with which boys took up radio, how they 
learned to read schematic drawings, wind coils, and 
make varied hook-ups. The amount and thoroughness 
8 



of the information possessed by some of these young¬ 
sters is often remarkable. Radio, itself, has been 
slowly accepted, if not as an Industrial Arts subject, 
at least as worthy of a place in the shop. Many in¬ 
structors who at first regarded it merely as a fad, have 
found that boys whose interest could not be awakened 
in any other way have been gripped by this t ‘ romance 
of the air,” and have become eager to build cabinets, 
solder joints, and otherwise plan and work to make 
their own sets. 

Concrete, by its universal usage, is familiar to all 
boys, and opens up so many lanes of knowledge that it 
ranks high as a real Industrial Arts subject. Making 
the molds, figuring the strength of the mixture, and 
the correct location of reinforcing are all real problems 
that the boys take a keen delight in solving. 

Probably no subject requires the ability to think 
out and plan ahead more than does working in sheet- 
metal. The faculty to visualize the object in what is 
actually but a flat piece of metal, and then to cut the 
metal so that the parts will fit together perfectly must 
have careful development. Sheet-metal has not been 
included in most courses because of a lack of machin¬ 
ery, proper tools, etc., but the problems given in this 
book can be executed with the average manual training 
equipment. 

Because of the fact that our product is to be not 
expert workers in the different occupations, but rather 
workers with a speaking acquaintance, as it were, 
with the processes and requirements of the industries 
touched upon, stress need not be laid upon absolute 
perfection in the use of plane, soldering iron, or trowel. 

9 



Knowledge, and not great skill, is the aim. An en¬ 
larged occupational intelligence makes for greater civic 
usefulness, for then the choice of a life work can he 
made with some understanding as to the demands of 
the occupation selected. 

These problems have been developed after a study 
of boy activities extending over a period of years, and 
are all such as have a direct appeal to boy nature. 

The author wishes to acknowledge indebtedness to 
those who have assisted him by suggestions and criti¬ 
cism; and is especially grateful to Lorenzo H. Knapp, 
Principal of the High School, Port Chester, New York, 
for valuable assistance in arranging and revising the 
manuscript; to Vivian Everleigh LaVoy for aid in 
preparing the copy; to G. K. Wagar, Director of Man¬ 
ual Training, New Rochelle, New York, for comparing 
drawings and text; and to Frank Panuska, Instructor 
in Mechanical Drawing, Stuyvesant High School, New 
York City, for checking the drawings. The inking of 
drawings and perspectives is the work of W. A. Peter¬ 
son, Architect, New York City. 

Kenneth R. LaVoy. 

New Rochelle, June, 1924. 


10 



CONTENTS 



I Bench Woodworking 


15 


Introduction 


Board Measure . 16 

Use of Tools . 16 

Squaring Up Stock . 16 

Common Tools . 17 

Wood Joints . 19 


Projects 

Beginners’ Problems . 22 

Floating Swan . 24 

Giraffe . 26 

Bird Feeders. 28 

Soap Dish and Towel Rack. 30 

Stern Wheeler . 32 

Rocking Pony . 34 

Salt Box . 36 

Boy’s Savings Bank . 38 

Pierrot Necktie Holder . 40 

Bread Boards . 42 

Mechanical Grasshopper . 44 

Candlestick . 46 

Shoe Shine Box . 48 

Kites . 50 

Sport Roadster. 52 

Toy Speed Boat .. 54 


11 

























II Electricity 


57 


Introduction 

Nature and Use . 57 

Electric Current Conductors. 57 

Electromotive Force. 58 

Rules and Formulas . 58 

Connections . 59 

Heat and Fuses . 59 

Splices and Symbols. 60 

Projects 

Simple Bell Circuit. 62 

Bell and Buzzer Circuit . 64 

Two-Family House Bell Circuit. 66 

House Wiring . 68 

Hall Light . 70 

III Kadio .72 

Introduction 

Opportunities for Experiment . 72 

Waves, Frequency and Radiation. 72 

Receiving Apparatus . 73 

Projects 

Single Circuit Set .•..... 77 

Cabinet Crystal Set. 80 

One-Tube Set . 82 

IV Concrete.84 

Introduction 

Present-Day Use. 84 

Concrete, Mortar, Stucco. 84 

Mixtures . 85 

Forms and Reinforcing . 85 

Mixing . 86 

Finishing . 86 


12 





























Projects 

Concrete Flags for Garden Walk. 88 

Teapot Stand . 90 

Shoe Scraper . 92 

Garage Door Stop . 94 

Box for Bulbs . 96 

Concrete Jardiniere . 98 

V Sheet-Metal .100 

Introduction 

Skill Plus Knowledge.100 

Various Branches .100 

Fluxes and Their Use.100 

Tinning the Copper .102 

Soldering .102 

Special Equipment .102 

Projects 

Cruller Cutter.104 

Match Box .106 

Wall Sconce .108 

Letter Holder .110 

Rolling Blotter.112 

Utility Tray .114 

VI Advanced Woodworking.116 

Introduction 

Tools and the Worker.116 

Saws .116 

Size and Set of a Saw.117 

Filing . 117 

Sharpening Other Tools.117 

Projects 

Circular Taboret .120 

Lamp .122 

Bird Homes.124 

13 






























Projects —Continued 

Model Sailing Yacht .126 

Folding Book Rack.128 

Sturdy Camp Stool .130 

Costumer .132 

Shaving and Medicine Cabinet.134 

Folding Ironing Board .136 

Sewing Cabinet .138 

Books for Reference. 140 

Rules of the Shop. 141 

Specimen of Daily Clean-up Schedule. 142 


14 












I. BENCH WOODWORKING 

This first chapter is devoted to small problems in 
wood and is called “Bench Woodworking’’ because 
the problems are all such as can be worked out at the 
bench without the use of machinery. For most of them 
the ordinary bench equipment will be sufficient; and 
they establish familiarity with rule, try-square, gage, 
compass, plane, boring tools; and with rip, crosscut 
and coping saws. Before beginning these problems it 
would be well to make a study of wood, its growth, and 
manufacture into lumber. Many interesting stories are 
told of the life and hardships of “lumberjacks,” as the 
men who cut the trees are called. Stewart Edward 
White has written many gripping, as well as instruc¬ 
tive, stories on this subject. A knowledge of the forma¬ 
tion and structure of wood will help you to .select the 
proper wood for various purposes. It will also make 
your work with saw, chisel, and plane much easier. In¬ 
deed many a good job is ruined by splintering or chip¬ 
ping, because the structure of the wood is not clearly 
understood by the worker. It is also valuable for you to 
understand the methods of sawing a tree into lumber at• 
the mill, and to know how it is graded for commercial 
use. 


15 


Board Measure —In order to be able to figure the 
cost of any projects you may make in the shop you will 
need to know how to figure in board measure. The unit 
of measure is the board foot, which is one foot square 
by one inch thick. The simplest rule for figuring this 
out is: Multiply the length of the hoard in feet hy its 
width in feet hy its thickness in inches. 

Use of Tools —Learn the names and uses of the 
bench tools, and when doing a job take care to hold 
the tools and to use them in the manner in which you 
are instructed. Learn that the try-square is never 
used as a hammer, that a chisel is not the same thing 
as a screwdriver, and that tools work easiest and best 
when used for the purpose originally intended. Skill 
in the use of tools comes only through constant, care¬ 
ful practice. Accuracy is absolutely essential if the 
various parts of a job are to assemble properly; and 
this can be cultivated right at the start. When laying 
out lines to finished dimensions, use a knife-point to 
mark with, because a pencil is not exact. Make each 
job your very best effort. Be content to start with 
the easy problems and work up to the more difficult. 
Bemember that it is necessary to lay a good founda¬ 
tion if the building is to be well constructed—therefore 
master the elementary operations and processes if you 
hope to become a good workman. 

Squaring Up Stock— Naturally you will wish to do 
the job in the speediest way consistent with good 
results, so practice getting out stock to finished dimen¬ 
sions, following the systematic plan herewith outlined. 

Select a piece of stock of the required wood, large 
enough for the job. 


16 



Procedure: 

1. Choose one surface and plane smooth and true. 
That is, plane so that when placed on a flat 
surface it will lie flat and not rock. This is 
called the working face. 

2. Plane one edge straight and square with the 
working face. Test this working edge with the 
try-square. 

3. Square one end and saw off, using the bench 
or back-saw. Use a block-plane if one is at 
hand, or the bench plane, and plane the end 
square and true with both the working face and 
the working edge. 

4. Measure to length and square off. Mark with 
knife lines, then saw off carefully, letting the 
knife line remain on the good piece. Plane to 
the center of the line. 

5. - Mark out the width, using the marking gage 

set to the required width. Now use a rip-saw 
and saw just outside of the knife line. Plane to 
this line and test for squareness. 

6. If the stock is too thick, set the gage at the 
proper thickness and mark off on the edges 
from the working surface. Plane off the surplus 
stock and test. The stock will now be square 
and ready to be incorporated in the project. 

Common Tools —The ordinary kit of tools includes 
the following, which are listed with their legitimate uses. 

Rule—For measuring and marking dimensions. 
(When making short, accurate measurements 
do not measure from the end of the rule, but 
use interior divisions on the rule.) 


17 



Try-square—For marking lines at right angles to 
an edge or surface, and for testing for 
squareness. 

Marking Gage—For making lines parallel to the 
working face or edge. Use a rule in setting 
the gage and, in general, push from you in 
marking. 

Hammer—For driving nails, also for removing 
them from wood. (A block of wood placed 
under the head of the hammer makes it 
easier to remove nails.) 

Mallet—For striking chisel handles, etc. Handy 
when gluing up work. 

Saws— 

Bip-saw—Has specially shaped teeth for ripping 
with the grain of the wood. 

Crosscut-saw—Used when sawing across the 
grain, as the name implies. 

Coping saw—Used for cutting small curves, fila¬ 
gree, etc. 

Planes— 

Block-plane—For use in one hand, or on end 
grain. 

Smooth-plane—For smoothing up work. 

Jack-plane—For general all-around use. 

Chisels—In general, to be used for paring, trim¬ 
ming, and mortising. 

Bit brace—For holding bits, drills, countersinks 
and screwdriver bits. 

Bevel—For laying out and testing angles. 

18 



Dividers—For drawing curves and circles, and for 
transferring measurements. 

Files and Rasps—The rasp is used to work an ob¬ 
ject roughly into shape, and the file is used 
for smoothing up. (Do not use unless abso¬ 
lutely necessary.) 

Nailset—For sinking the heads of nails below the 
surface. 

Countersink—To shape the hole for the head of the 
screw. 

Draw-knife—To remove waste material quickly. 

Boring tools— 

Drills—Marked in 32nds. Can be used on metal 
and wood. 

Auger-bits—Marked in 16ths. For use on wood 
only. (Splintering, on through boring, can 
be avoided by clamping a piece of scrap stock 
behind the board through which the hole is to 
be bored.) 

Wood Joints —In order to procure a well-con¬ 
structed job, some attention must be given to the sub¬ 
ject of joints. There are types of joints to fit almost 
every conceivable demand, but for our purposes the 
joints illustrated will be sufficient. The type of joint 
to use depends on the strength required, direction of 
pressure, and appearance. One of Rankin’s principles 
of joint construction is: “Proportion the fastenings 
so that they may be of equal strength with the pieces 
which they connect.” 


19 



The simplest of joints is the butt joint, which is 
used in common work, as, for example, boxes, simple 
taborets, and novelties. 

A mitre joint is a familiar one, for it is commonly 
used on mirrors and picture frames. It may also be 
used in making small boxes such as those used for 
handkerchiefs and gloves. 

The end-lap, cross-lap, and middle-lap joints are all 
made in the same way. That is, half of the stock is 
removed from each piece of wood. The end-lap joint 
is used in making small cupboard doors and in framing 
the interior of cabinets. The cross-lap is found in tabo¬ 
rets where the lower stretchers cross. The use of the 
middle-lap joint is illustrated in the cross member of a 
framework. 

The rabbet joint is good for making drawers, boxes, 
etc. It conceals part of the end grain and makes a 
neat, inconspicuous joint. 

The dado is much used in shelving, in strengthening 
steps in stepladders, and in drawer construction. 

The mortise-and-tenon joint is the one most used 
in fastening the rails to table legs and in framing 
chairs. 

The dowel joint, although not so strong as the mor- 
tise-and-tenon, is used a great deal because it is more 
quickly made. It is made by fastening the two pieces 
together by gluing round wooden pins (dowels) into 
holes bored in each piece of wood. 


20 




21 











Beginners ’ Problems 
Match Strike 

The match strike is a good project to start on, 
as it brings in the use of many of the bench tools. 

Follow the routine already given for getting out 
stock, and square up a piece from stock. 

Measure as shown in the drawing, and plane the top 
corners off. The small hole, for convenience in hang¬ 
ing up the match strike, is in the center %" down from 
the top. The striker part is made by gluing a piece of 
sandpaper, 2"x3", y 2 " from either edge and %" up 
from the bottom. No finish is required; simply sand 
well and then hang in a convenient place at home. 

Wall Holder for Watch 

A wall holder makes a handy place to hang your 
watch at night, and in the morning you can see whether 
or not you have time for another nap. 

Square out a piece of stock 3^"x5", following the 
proper steps. Use a coping saw to cut out the curves. 
Carefully smooth the large curves with a plane. Sand 
up the small curves. Place the bevel along the top 
edge. By means of squares, draw the holder or 
arm. Saw this out with the coping saw, and fasten to 
the back piece with glue and small brads. Sand thor¬ 
oughly. Fasten a small cup hook in place to hold the 
watch. Finish with either paint or stain. 

Calendar Standard 

This calendar standard is a useful desk ornament 
for Dad. Do a good, accurate job and he will be proud 
to have it on his desk to show his friends. 


22 




23 




















































If the steps already outlined are followed you will 
have no difficulty in getting out the parts to the re¬ 
quired sizes. Fasten the parts together using glue 
and 1" brads. Two small screweyes hold the pad holder 
to the arm. Screw one into the arm and one into the 
holder. With a pair of pliers open one of the eyes and, 
after placing the two together, pinch together again. 

Glue a calendar pad to the holder. Then stain to 
match Dad’s desk, and finish with two coats of shellac. 


Floating Swan 

An unusual type of plaything can be made by fas¬ 
tening a figure to a block of wood which is shaped 
somewhat like the hull of a boat. A polar bear, dog, 
duck, or boy might be used, as well as the swan. Your 
young brother or sister would certainly be glad to have 
such an amusing toy to play with. 

Use three-ply or white wood for the figure, and 
draw the required number of squares. Sketch in the 
outline of the swan. Cut out with a coping saw, leav¬ 
ing 14 " of material along the bottom edge for fastening 
to float. Shape the float from %" stock, and with the 
*4" chisel cut a groove lengthwise through the center, 
1 4" deep. Before gluing, place the float in the water and 
shift the swan forward andj back in the groove until the 
proper balance is found. 

Paint the swan white, with black markings for eyes 
and wings, and paint the float a bright, deep blue. Give 
two coats if necessary, and finish by applying a coat 
of Valspar varnish to protect the paint from the water. 

Turn a small screweye into the float near the prow, 
and fasten a string through it. 

24 




25 
































































Giraffe 


Boys always like to make moving toys, and among 
the many kinds of animals that can he used on a 
wheeled platform, the giraffe is very popular. 

The toy should he cut from three-ply stock, if pos¬ 
sible, because of its strength. However, if cut from 
plain stock the toy will he fairly strong if the 
grain runs from foot to head. 

Leave tV' of stock on the bottom of each foot, to 
fit into the groove which is cut in the platform. 

The platform is a 2"x8" piece of y 2 " stock with a 
y 8 " chamfer running around the upper edge, and a 
Vy'xiY' groove chiseled through the center on the top 
side. 

The axles are %" wide x 3%" long and are also 
y 2 " thick. They are fastened to the platform on the 
under side %" from each end. 

Large button molds may be used for the wheels, or 
they may be cut with a coping saw from %" material. 
In fastening the wheels to the axles, use screws, and 
place a washer between the wheels and the axles, and 
also on the outside of the wheel. Then the wheels will 
revolve freely. 

The stand and wheels may be enameled in various 
colors, but the giraffe will look best if it is enameled 
a neutral yellow with the spots and markings black. 
Best results will be had if the parts are enameled be¬ 
fore assembling. 

The giraffe is glued into the groove in the platform. 


26 



„„ 'GIRAFFE- 

<sin groove^ AWHEELED PLATOM TOY 



27 




































































Bird Feeders 


Useful, instructive, and interesting problems for 
beginners in woodworking are offered in these draw¬ 
ings of bird feeders, or “bird canteens,’’ as they might 
be called. These feeders should be made in the early 
autumn months and hung out-of-doors to weather. 
Then when the ground has on its white blanket and 
the birds are starving for food, keep the holder filled 
with bread, seeds, suet, and scraps of meat. Conscious¬ 
ness of having done something worth while, as well as 
the privilege of being able to study the birds at close 
range, will be ample reward for the effort. 

Feeder No. 1 is made as follows: First, square up 
a piece of y 2 ' cypress to 4" wide x 4%" long, for the 
roof. The back, which is 4" wide x 7 y 2 ' long, is of the 
same material. Bore two screw holes, and also three 
y 2 " holes for the dowel perches. The top end should 
be beveled slightly, to make the roof slant. This will 
also necessitate planing the back end of the roof at 
an angle, in order to bring the end flush with the back. 
The feeding shelf is %" wide, 3 y 2 long on one edge, 
and 2y 2 " long on the opposite edge. The parts should 
be nailed securely together, and the dowels glued in 
place. The holder is made by bending 14 " rabbit wire 
around the feeding shelf, and fastening it in place with 
two pointed tacks. 

Feeder No. 2 offers an opportunity for the display 
of ideas in designing the back piece. Select a piece of 
Mj" cypress, and square up to 4" x 8", not forgetting the 
correct steps for squaring up stock. Plan the shape 
and submit your design to the instructor before going 
ahead. The perch, while not difficult, requires care in 
28 




29 


































































the joinery involved. The curves on the sides of the 
perch and on the feeding shelf can be made with the 
coping saw. Assemble the parts, nailing them firmly. 

The “canteens” should be finished by staining a 
green or brown. 


Soap Dish 

A soap dish, although novel, is a very practical 
problem in wood. The back of the dish affords an 
opportunity for modification and for expression of 
individual ideas in design. Although y± stock is used, 
the project can be made very strong by putting the 
parts together as illustrated. 

Drain holes should be bored in the bottom, and one 
hole should be bored in the back, to serve as a means 
of hanging the dish up. 

When finished, the job is given two coats of gloss 
white paint and one coat of water-proof varnish. 


Towel Rack 

The old-style roller towel has become a thing of the 
past, but a modern and durable type of towel rack can 
be made as shown in the drawing. 

The towel rack may be made as a companion piece 
to the soap dish—in this case the design of the backs 
should be similar. 

When ready for the assembly, fasten the end pieces 
to the backs by gluing and nailing. Finish the towel 
holder so that it will match the soap dish. 

30 



/ 


' SOAP DISH ■ 





31 




















































Steen Wheelek 

Here is a Mississippi steamboat that is going to 
make the younger brother very happy. It is seaworthy 
and travels under its own power. Although smoke 
doesn’t pour out of the smoke-stack as the illustration 
shows, it looks very much like the real river boats. 

A flat piece of wood 4" wide, *4" thick, and 11" long 
makes the hull. It should be planed at one end for the 
bow. Cut a piece 1%" x 2 1 4" from the center of the 
stern to make a place for the paddle wheel. 

The deck-house should be made of very thin stock. 
The chimney is a %" dowel nailed to the roof before 
the roof is nailed on. 

Tin is cut, bent to shape, and nailed to the bow to 
keep the waves from washing over the deck. A keel is 
nailed to the bottom, but no rudder is required. 

No suggestions are given as to color, for this is a 
matter of individual choice. 

When ready for the try-out, place a rubber band in 
position as shown (notches should be cut in the sides 
of the hull to keep it from slipping oil), and turn the 
wheel backward, winding up the rubber. Put the boat 
in the water, release the paddle wheel, and the water 
will be churned up in a realistic manner as the boat 
speeds away. 


32 




33 





































Rocking Pony 

This friendly looking pony is not difficult to make, 
and your younger brother can have a great deal of 
pleasure in playing with him. 

The platform on which the toy is fastened may be 
made of a single piece of stock, but in the toy illus¬ 
trated five small pieces of stock %" wide x 3" long 
are nailed across the rockers, one piece being nailed at 
each end, and the other three pieces spaced off near 
the middle of the rockers. This makes a light, strong 
♦framework. 

Cut out two pieces l 1 /^' wide x long for the 
rockers. Set the compass or dividers at 6" from point 
to point, and lay out the curve from one corner to the 
opposite corner, as shown. The curving may be done 
by use of the coping saw. However, the rockers are an 
excellent exercise in planing, for they emphasize at¬ 
tention to the grain. 

Three-ply panel stock or beaver board serves for 
the pony, which is cut out with a coping saw. After 
being sanded, it is glued and nailed to the rocker. 

Although individual choice may of course be exer¬ 
cised in enameling the toy, a good color scheme is 
as follows: Platform, green; rockers, red; pony, white 
with black markings; harness, red; blanket, yellow and 
green. 


34 



•ROCKING' 

•PONY' 



•DETAIL OF-ROCKER' 



35 


























































Salt Box 

A salt box is an article which will prove useful in 
the home. Originality can be exercised in designing a 
suitably shaped back piece and in planning the letter¬ 
ing on the box. 

Square up a piece of *4" stock 4%" wide x 8y 2 " 
long. Shape the piece according to the design selected. 
Use a No. 4 bit and bore a hole for wall fastener 1*4" 
down from the top and 2 1 / 4" from the edge. Get out 
the rest of the stock as shown in the drawing and as¬ 
semble, using %" No. 18 finishing nails* Note that the 
front piece is set 14 " back from the outer edge of the 
bottom. 

The box may be left natural, with black enameled 
letters, or it may be given two or three coats of a good 
grade of white enamel. 


36 




37 




















































































Boy’s Sayings Bank 

You will take delight in depositing money in this 
unique wooden bank, because of the ingenious construc¬ 
tion of the drawer, which allows coins to be put in, but 
not removed. The bank, if carefully made and well 
finished, is a pleasing ornament on a shelf or bureau. 
A silk tassel, hung from a small brass screweye in the 
front of the drawer, makes a decorative drawer pull. 

Make the bank first, but do not nail on the top until 
the drawer is in place. Square up to size the top and 
bottom pieces. Plane a %" chamfer around the top 
edge of the bottom piece, and a chamfer around 
that of the top. Get out two pieces, each 3*4" wide x 6" 
long. Select one of the pieces, and at one end cut out, 
measuring from the center, a %" x 1%" opening. This 
is for the drawer. Nail the pieces together. If an easy 
method .of opening the bank is desired, fasten the bot¬ 
tom on with small screws. Shape and nail in place the 
pieces for the drawer to slide on. 

Next tackle the drawer. Take a piece of %" stock 
and square up to %" x 1%" x 3%". Bore a 1" hole in 
the center, 2" from the end. In one surface cut a recess 
as shown in the drawing, and get out a piece of stock 
which will fit easily in the recess. This is the trap-door. 
Make a small leather hinge and set it into both pieces 
of wood so that it comes flush with the surface. Glue 
it in place. Nail a strip of wood to the rear of the 
drawer to prevent it from coming all the way out. Now 
put the drawer in place and nail the top on. Set the 
heads of the nails into the wood. Sand thoroughly with 
the grain and apply a coat of shellac. Putty the nail 

38 



■bOYS- 

■SAVINGS 

■BANK' 






I 




•TOP VIEW^ DRAWER' _o~ 

■{YFSsiiniC 

LeoHie 



•FRONT VIEW' 


^'‘Cfiam/er^ 


G/iDE VIEW- 


39 










































holes and any cracks in the wood. Apply two coats of 
the enamel selected. A stencil design may be applied 
if desired. 


Pierrot Necktie Holder 

The accompanying drawing shows a unique and 
serviceable necktie holder that is an attractive wall 
ornament. 

Mark out on heavy paper (by means of squares the 
desired size) the figure illustrated. Cut out around 
outer marking with knife or scissors. Place this pat¬ 
tern on a piece of three-ply white wood about iV' thick. 
Trace around it. The markings on the figure may be 
transferred, when desired, by means of carbon paper 
or by making a stencil. The figure is next cut out with 
a coping saw. 

The end pieces, which are shaped like hands, are cut 
from %" soft wood, and have a *4" hole bored as 
shown, for holding the dowel rod. The hands are 
fastened to the back piece with glue and one %" No. 6 
common screw, driven through the back into each. A 
14 " dowel rod, which becomes the holder for the ties, is 
cut the right length, then glue is placed on the inside 
of the holes in the hands and the dowel rod inserted. 
Carefully clean off any glue on the surfaces. 

Colors for the finish are of course optional. A good 
combination, however, is to paint the figure chrome 
yellow, the collar and cutfs black; hair, eyes and outline 
markings also black; and pompons, lips and facial 
markings red. The rod is not colored. For satisfactory 
results these colors should be good, standard enamels. 

40 




41 




























































The best method of fastening the holder to the wall 
is to nse two hangers such as are nsed for small pic¬ 
tures. These should be fastened to the back about four 
inches from each end. 


Bread Boards 

Bread boards, when shaped to the outlines of fa¬ 
miliar motifs, are very interesting projects, and it is 
a great deal of fun working them out. The drawings 
show how two such motifs can be adapted for use. 
When completed, the boards are attractive as well as 
useful, and Mother will have a pleased “ Thank you, 
Sonny,” for the maker, when the job is done. 

A piece of 9" x 15" birch, %" thick, will be just 
right. Lay out squares as shown on the opposite page, 
and draw the figure selected. With a turning-saw cut 
out the outline. Smooth up, being careful to remove 
all saw marks. Now with a penknife or small carving 
tool cut a Y-shaped groove wherever markings appear 
on the figure. Finally sand thoroughly with the grain, 
finishing up with No. 00 sandpaper. Do not stain, var¬ 
nish, or paint, but leave the wood natural. 


42 



■BREAD' 

•BOARDS 




43 
































































Mechanical Grasshopper 

This is an amusing toy that can he made of box 
wood. When finished and pulled along the floor by a 
piece of string, the big wheels revolve, and in turning 
make the back legs move in a laughable manner. 

The body of the toy should be cut from stock an 
inch in thickness. The small wheel is also of this thick¬ 
ness. The rest of the toy (two pieces of each pattern) 
should be cut from %" stock. After the parts are 
ready apply two coats of enamel, and assemble when 
thoroughly dry. 

Assembly: 

1. Fasten the big wheels on opposite sides of the 
body so that they turn freely. Use a washer be¬ 
tween the wheel and the body. A No. 7 flat head 
1" screw, with the head set in flush with the 
outer surface of the wheel will work well. 

2. Fasten the front legs by nailing solid. 

3. Use a wire cotter key and washers to fasten the 
small wheel between the front legs. 

4. Assemble the two parts of the back legs so that 
they move freely. Use a cotter key and washers. 

5. Fasten the legs to the body so that they move 
easily. Use a washer and a 1" No. 5 flat head 
screw. 

6. Attach the back feet to the big wheels, using a 
washer and a screw as above. Note that they 
should be fastened off center. 

Turn a small screweye into the head near where the 
mouth should be, and attach a short length of string. 
Now pull the toy along on the floor, and you will be 
amply repaid for your time and trouble. 

44 



-ASSEMBLY- 

■MECHANICAL' 

GRASSHOPPER^ 




45 





































Candlestick 

A candlestick of wood, with copper trimmings, 
makes an attractive and oftentimes serviceable orna¬ 
ment for living room or den. The lay-out of the orna¬ 
mental copper piece for the top is good practice in 
pattern work. 

Square up a piece of stock to 4 " x thick. Around 
the top face plane a chamfer. The holder part is 
4^/2" high x 1 %" square. In one end, drill a 1 " hole 
about an inch deep. On this same end measure from 
each corner 14" and draw lines slanting to the bottom 
corner. Plane to these lines, sand thoroughly, and 
apply a coat of stain. 

Cut out the handle and top piece from a piece of 
eighteen gage copper. Bend these as shown, and fasten 
to the candlestick with %" brass escutcheon pins. 

Finish by giving one or more coats of wax, rubbing 
down well before applying the second coat. 




• CANDLESTICK 
WGDD° nd ' 


•Topy WC3DDEN HaDtR 

L 



47 































































Shoe Shine Box 

A small shoe shine box which can be placed away on 
a shelf when not in use is a worth while project. This 
box is so designed that you can sit comfortably in a 
chair, place your foot on the cover, and shine your 
shoes with no bother or discomfort. The corrugated 
rubber keeps the shoe from slipping, and rubber 
headed nails, driven into the bottom of the box, keep 
the box from sliding and marring the floor. 

In order to have both hands free to use dauber and 
brush, it is a good plan to fasten, with a screw, a can 
cover to the top of the box—this cover to hold the bot¬ 
tom half of the box of shoe polish while the box is in 
use. 

The inside of the box is large enough to hold cans 
of polish, dauber, brushes, and cloths. The handles on 
the ends facilitate handling the box. 

Butt joints are used throughout, and great care is 
necessary in squaring up the stock. Small brass hinges 
are fastened on the outside of the box and cover. A 
small chest hook is needed to keep the cover securely 
closed. 

The finish will of course depend on the wood used. 
It is best, however, to use some good hard wood, as 
the box will have to stand rough usage. When hard 
wood is used, stain and apply a thin coat of shellac. 
For soft wood paint or enamel is best. 


48 




•5TOCK %‘H lick- 



49 





































































Kites 

All boys like to fly kites, for there is a certain thrill 
in fashioning a kite that will soar high into the air. 
Not every kite made will fly; it takes real ingenuity to 
puzzle out the reason and remedy the trouble. 

The first kite shown is the simplest of practical kites 
to make. The dimensions given are merely suggestions. 
Where the two sticks cross, cut notches much as in 
making a cross-lap joint, so that when fastened with a 
small brad and bound with cord the joint will be very 
strong. Make knife cuts in the ends of the sticks, and 
run a cord from the end of one stick to the end of the 
other, making the framework. Take a sufficiently large 
piece of brown wrapping paper and mark on it the out¬ 
line of the kite. Allow about %" for folding over the 
cord, and cut out. Apply glue to the flaps and fold 
them over the string. Press in place and set aside to 
dry. 

When it is thoroughly dry, fasten a string on the 
front from top to bottom and from one side to the 
other. Fasten a line to these two strings. Make a tail 
by fastening pieces of cloth at intervals along a length 
of cord. The length of this cord will depend on the size 
of the kite; it should be heavy enough to prevent the 
kite from diving. 

A box kite is a good kind to own and is not so diffi¬ 
cult to construct as might be supposed. In making it, 
use as light strips of wood as possible, consistent with 
strength. The diagonal braces should be fastened to¬ 
gether securely, because most of the strain falls on 
them. Use heavy, colored tissue paper, pasted around 
the form as shown. 


50 




51 
















Organize a kite-flying contest, having prizes for the 
smallest kite that will fly, the highest flying kite, the 
largest kite, and the most unique kite that will go up 
in the air. 


Sport Roadster 

This project is a suggestion only, for the real prob¬ 
lem is to plan and construct a single-seater, modeled 
after your favorite make of automobile. Both wood 
and metal are used in the project and, wherever prac¬ 
tical, common objects, such as spools for lights, and a 
small baking powder can for a gasoline tank, are made 
use of. Caps from shaving cream, tooth paste, or cold 
cream tubes are soldered on for radiator and gasoline 
tank caps. With careful soldering the caps will turn on 
and off. 

When the parts are ready, fasten the flooring piece 
10" x 3" x 1 / 4" between the chassis pieces. Nail the axles 
in place. Nail on the hood pieces and then bend a piece 
of tin 8" x 3%" to shape over these pieces and nail 
securely. Assemble the seat and fasten it to the 
chassis. Glue the foot-rest in place. Bore a hole for 
the steering post, insert dowel post, and attach steering 
wheel. Cut a spool in half and fasten (using flat head 
screws) the pieces in place as head lights. Make a 
bumper from a piece of folded tin and attach to the 
front as shown. 

Next nail the tank supports in place. Solder the 
cover of a small can on tightly and also solder a cap 
in the center of the upper side. The tank is held in 
position by tin straps which are nailed to the under 
side of the rear axle. Solder on the radiator cap. 

52 



■SPORT' 

ROADSTER 1 

•-tg v * 



•PATTtRNS' 

/'TANK-SUPPORT- 















’p-~ 








3 




C. /; 



O- 





i, << 










—j 

< 



h.- 


JO 

*e 

>* X 




















©TIN HOOD © TIN GASTANK($ m J Con)® REAR AXLE 5 4‘*I4«S” 
©BUMPER(Tm) ©TIN STRAPS HolTUDnplace ®PRONTAXLEW‘S’ 
©SPOOL HEADLIGHTS© TANK SUPPORT 
® CHASSIS)#* l"« 12" © FOOT REST ® CAPSYrom shoving cream- 



53 













































































Assemble the wheels, using washers and a l 1 /^" No. 
10 blued round head screw. A washer should be placed 
between the head of the screw and the wheel, and also 
between the wheel and the chassis. The wheel will 
then revolve freely. The spare wheel is fastened to 
the rear of the frame. 

Painting comes next. Decide on the color scheme 
you would like and talk it over with your instructor. 
Do not pattern your painting job after that some other 
boy has thought up, but make your car original and 
distinctly individual. 


Toy Speed Boat 

This little boat, combining the use of woodworking 
and sheet-metal tools, calls for considerable mechanical 
resourcefulness in its assembly. 

Shape the hull from a piece of pine or spruce 1%" x 
3y 2 " x 9". Lighten the hull by cleaning out as much 
stock for a hold as can be done safely. This may be 
done by use of mallet and chisel, but the quickest way 
is to use brace and bit, finishing up with the chisel. 

Shape the keel and fasten in place. Cut a piece of 
tin like Figure 3 and nail in place at bow of boat. 

Bore a small hole in the stern for the rudder post. 
Cut a piece of tin foy the rudder, and bend a piece of 
fairly stiff copper wire like Figure 4. Put the wire in 
the hole already bored, and solder the tin rudder to the 
lower end of the wire. 

Figures 1 and 2 show how the engine parts are as¬ 
sembled. The propeller is soldered to the wire, which 
should turn freely in the folded piece of pin. The wire 

54 



TOY SPEED BOAT 



Rubber DandV 
- 


SIDE-VIEW- 


55 












































for the stationary end is soldered into the folded tin. 
Slots are cut into the keel, the ends of the folded tin 
slipped in, and nails are then driven through one side 
of keel, passing through the tin and out the opposite 
side of the keel, where they are clinched. The eye in 
the forward wire is left partly open to permit fasten¬ 
ing the rubber band. 

Place in the water to determine the location of 
the water line, and then paint. 

To start: Place a rubber band through the eye in 
the wire attached to the propeller, and loop the ends 
in the eye in the forward wire. Turn the propeller until 
the band is completely wound up. Hold the propeller to 
keep it from turning, and place in the water. Then 
release the boat. If it has been properly, constructed 
it will be satisfyingly speedy. Several boys can get 
together and hold exciting little races. 


56 



II. ELECTRICITY 

Nature and Use —What is electricity! This is a 
question often asked, and it is something of an effort 
to answer frankly: We do not know. Naturally, it 
seems strange that in this day and age, a power so 
much used, a force that works for us in so many ways 
should he unknown. But if we do not know what it is, 
we do know how to harness it for our needs, as wit¬ 
nessed by the vast number of electrical applicances now 
sold. Although practically unused in our fathers * 
times, today we should not know what to do without it. 
How should we run our automobiles, light our houses, 
operate our factories, or talk with our distant friends 
over wires if it were not for this invisible force? 

Electric Current, Conductors —Electricity in motion 
is spoken of as a current of electricity. The direction 
of the flow of electricity is from a positively to a nega¬ 
tively electrified body, and so we say the current flows 
from positive to negative. Positive is represented by 
the symbol plus ( + ) and negative by minus (—). The 
rule is that like charges repel while opposites attract. 
In order to have a flow of current there must be a 
conductor. Some substances are better than others as 
electrical conductors, and still others effect so much 
opposition that practically no current can pass through 

57 


them. An object that does not conduct electricity is 
known as a non-conductor , an insulator , or a dialectric. 
Copper wire is the best available conductor of electric¬ 
ity; and common insulators are glass, porcelain and 
rubber. You have, of course, noticed how telephone and 
electric light wires on poles are fastened to porcelain 
insulators, and how electricians tape joints to prevent 
the passage of current when objects come in contact 
with the joint. 

Electromotive Force —The tendency that exists for 
current to flow between points having a difference in 
potential is spoken of as the electromotive force . The 
unit for measuring this E. M. F. is the volt , and an¬ 
other word for the pressure is voltage. The current 
itself is measured by a unit called an ampere. The 
opposition of the wire or other conductor through 
which the current passes must also be taken into con¬ 
sideration, as some electromotive force is expended in 
sending the current through the conductor. This re¬ 
sistance varies according to the kind of wire used and 
the length and size of the wire. Resistance is meas¬ 
ured in terms of ohms. The flow of current, therefore, 
can be controlled by changing either the voltage or the 
resistance. A high voltage gives more current, while 
an increased resistance gives less current. 

Rules and Formulas —The following rules and 
formulas make it possible to figure the third unit if 
two of the units are given: 

1. Amperes equal volts divided by ohms. 

E 

Formula.I =- 

R 


58 




2. Volts equal the product of amperes times ohms. 

Formula.E = IXR 

3. Ohms equal volts divided by amperes. 

E 

Formula.R = - 

I 

(Note: “I” is current in amperes, “R” is resist¬ 
ance in ohms, and “E” is electromotive force in volts.) 
These cover what is known as Ohm’s Law. 

Connections —When it is desired to increase the 
voltage, batteries are connected in what is called series 
wiring, but if we wish to divide the work between the 
batteries without increasing the voltage, the wiring 
arrangement used is parallel. In series wiring the posi¬ 
tive terminal of one battery is connected to the 
negative terminal of the other. In parallel wiring the 
positive terminals are connected and the negative ter¬ 
minals are also connected. Resistance, as for example 
lights, can also be connected in the same ways. 

Heat and Fuses —Probably you have often won¬ 
dered why the wires in an electric toaster become hot 
when the current is on. This is caused by the resistance 
of the small wires to the current which is being forced 
through them. An electric current always causes heat, 
but in some cases the heat is so slight as not to be no¬ 
ticed. It can be regulated either by increasing or de¬ 
creasing the flow of current or the resistance. This 
effect of the current is taken advantage of in what are 
known as fuses. A fuse is made of a soft wire which 
will melt before it becomes very hot. Its purpose is to 
break the circuit, thus stopping the flow of electricity 
when a short circuit occurs in a lighting system. 

59 




The problems in the following pages tonch only a 
small part of the vast field of electricity, but they are 
all practical applications and, as such, will be found to 
be exceedingly interesting. 

Splices and Symbols —There are certain accepted 
methods of making connections in electrical work and 
one should be,familiar with them. The drawings fully 
illustrate many of the standard types of connections, 
and in most cases the name suggests the correct use. 

The Western Union splice is the usual method of 
joining two wires in a line. The wire wound splice is 
more difficult to make, but gives a stronger job. 

On house plans, the architect designates the number 
and kind of fixtures to be used, by various symbols. 
The common symbols are shown in the drawing. In 
order to be able to read the blueprint one must know 
the symbols. Perhaps at first glance the joints will 
appear easy to make. It is, however, fairly difficult and 
takes considerable practice to make joints that are 
mechanically and electrically secure. 

In making a connection, as, for example, splicing a 
joint, we must first remove the insulation. Do not cut 
the insulation off squarely, but use a taper cut. This 
avoids nicking the wire with the knife, which would 
weaken the joint and increase the resistance of the 
wire at that point. Next, scrape the wire, for dirty wire 
makes a poor contact. Fasten the ends together in 
some approved manner so as to secure a good contact. 
Then apply solder to maintain the contact securely. 
Lastly, wrap the joint with tape to insulate against 
outside contacts. Take pains to make a neat and strong 
connection. 


60 



ELECTRICITY 


■SPLICES AND TAPS 


•WESTERN-UNION-SPLICE: 


SYMBOLSfOR-WIRING' 
•PLANS' 

zf 



WIRE CONNECTION- ‘NO CONNECTION 

m Junction box ©one light 

^ _ OUTLET 

PUSHBUTTON© 


•BELL 


0 METER 

rV 11 

LJ BATTERY 


g BUZZER w 


RATTAIL- 

ITxfure ondjuncfion box splice 


CEILING OUTLET- 


25 


DROPCORDOUTLET 

foT 


-WIRE WOUND-SPLICE- 


•ELOOR OUTLET 

|d] WALL o- 


TELEPHONE- 
H SPEAKING TUBE 

BRACKET 
OUTLET 


•BASEBOARD OUTLET* 



•FLEXIBLE LAMP CORD- 
Spliced Jo solid wire- 


CABLE-STANDARD WIRE SPLICE- 


61 











Simple Bell Circuit 

The circuit shown is, of course, very elementary, 
but in order to. get a thorough, practical, working 
knowledge of the principles of electricity, we must lay 
the foundations carefully. 

This problem has many every-day applications, the 
picture of the house with the circuit installed being 
one of the most common. Other uses might be: (1) The 
superintendent or manager pushes a button at his desk, 
which rings a bell or buzzer in the outer office and sum¬ 
mons his secretary; (2) A button is placed at the door 
of the stock-room connecting with a bell in the stock- 
room, to call the clerk when material is needed. There 
are of course many other uses, and from this one cir¬ 
cuit variations may be made, such as connecting two 
bells with one button, or two buttons to ring one bell. 
Plan the circuit to fit some real need. 

When this circuit is made in the home, the wires 
from the door button go down inside the partition or 
door jamb to the cellar, along the floor joists to the 
batteries, which are usually placed on a rough shelf 
between the joists in a location convenient to the cellar 
steps. From there the wires come up, between the 
partition, to the bell which is fastened high up on the 
kitchen wall. 

In making connections, make one loop of the wire 
around the binding-post in a clockwise direction. Then 
when the nut is turned on it holds the wire firmly. Be¬ 
fore the wire has been fastened to the battery or bell, 
wind up the slack around a pencil. This makes a neat¬ 
looking job. 


62 




APPLICATION 



63 












































The connections on this job do not need to be 
soldered or taped. Bun the wires at right angles to 
each other and keep the two wires parallel. This is 
done more for appearance than for any electrical 
reason. 


Bell and Buzzer Circuit 

This circuit is a logical advance from the previous 
circuit and shows two buttons, a bell, and a buzzer 
hooked up together, using the same set of batteries. 
One button rings the bell and the other the buzzer. 
Thus when the bell and buzzer are side by side on the 
kitchen wall, Mother knows, when one rings, whether 
the caller is at the front or rear door. 

The illustration shows the connection and how the 
circuit would be installed in a house. For clearness of 
wiring, the bell and buzzer are shown as though on 
opposite sides of a partition, but in actual practice such 
would probably not be the case. Usually they are 
placed side by side on the pantry or kitchen wall. 

After working out the problem as given, try to con¬ 
nect up the same arrangement of parts so that both but¬ 
tons ring both bell and buzzer. 


64 




65 





























































Two-Family House Bell Circuit 
This circuit, which is planned for a two-family 
house, merely doubles the parts used in the preceding 
problem. The batteries for the entire circuit are con¬ 
nected and placed on a shelf in the cellar. One feed 
wire serves for the four parts. 

Two buttons are at the front door. The upper one 
rings the upstairs bell and the lower one rings for the 
family downstairs. The buttons at the rear or side 
doors work the same with the buzzers. 

After working out this problem successfully, re¬ 
group the parts, having the four buttons one above the 
other, and connect them so that either a bell or a buzzer 
will ring in each of four apartments. 

There are myriad other arrangements that might 
be worked out with bell and buzzer, but the ones which 
we have covered are typical house installations and 
should assist you to make the necessary repairs if the 
bell circuit in your own home does not work. If your 
house is without a front door bell system, influence 
Dad to give you permission to install one. 


66 




67 


























































House Wiring 

This problem should familiarize you with entrance 
switches, fuses, methods of insulating for house wir¬ 
ing, snap switches and chain switches, and the method 
of connecting house lights in parallel arrangement. 

Secure the necessary parts from the stock-room and 
assemble the circuit. Test your work. Remove one of 
the lamps and observe whether or not this has any 
effect on the circuit. Connect in a lamp with a chain 
switch socket. 

How would you connect in a toaster or iron so that 
one of the lamps would indicate when the current was 
on in the appliance? 

In common practice, some electricians place the en¬ 
trance switch and fuse box in the cellar, but these are 
also often placed in the attic if it is at all accessible. 


68 



•HOUSE WIRING- 






































Hall Light 

Have you ever wondered how the circuit was ar¬ 
ranged so that either the switch upstairs or the lower 
floor switch would operate the hall light independently? 
The accompanying drawing and diagram illustrate the 
problem. 

Use two three-way snap switches, and connect either 
a lamp or a bell as the indicator. Connect carefully. 
Trace the flow of current with the switches in various 
positions. Test with a current and check your ob¬ 
servations. 

The same arrangement might be used for lighting 
the garage with one switch at the kitchen door and the 
other in the garage. 

Plan a practical application to fill some real or 
imaginary shop need. 


70 




71 






































III. RADIO 

Opportunities for Experiment —Any boy who is not 

interested in radio, or who has not built and assembled 
his own set, is missing an opportunity to experiment 
with and enjoy one of the greatest discoveries of all 
time. It is almost unbelievable that without the aid 
of connecting wires, one can hear music and voices at 
great distances, and that daily countless numbers of 
radio enthusiasts (fans) are “listening in” on 
speeches and concerts delivered many miles away. The 
subject is one for constant, interesting study, and hap¬ 
pily the field is open to the novice and the expert alike. 
The beginner does not necessarily have to know con¬ 
siderable about electricity and the principles of radio 
in order to make a start. A home-made set can be 
constructed and operated without such knowledge, but 
once the field is invaded one will not be satisfied until 
the mysteries become clear. 

Waves, Frequency and Radiation —The medium 
through which radio waves travel is called ether, which 
fills all space. Scientists are working to determine the 
nature of ether, but, although confident that such a 
medium exists, they have as yet been unable to discover 
much about it. The broadcasting stations set in mo¬ 
tion, from their transmitting aerials, waves called 

72 


electro-magnetic waves, which, because of their high 
frequency (they travel 186,400 miles per second), are 
inaudible to our ears. A radio receiving set with 
phones is necessary to change these high-frequency 
waves to waves that will produce sound audible to us. 
Electro-magnetic waves are spread out from the broad¬ 
casting station in all directions with equal force, and so 
when a station in Chicago is broadcasting it can be 
heard in New York, San Francisco, or New Orleans. 

This radiation of the waves can be clearly shown 
by the following illustration, familiar to all of us: If 
we stand on the shore of a lake and throw a stone into 
the water, ripples spread out in the form of circles, the 
center of them being the spot where the stone entered 
the water. The farther away from the center the rip¬ 
ples move, the weaker they become, until they gradually 
die out. The waves from the broadcasting station 
spread out in the same manner, becoming weaker the 
farther they travel from the transmitting aerial. These 
waves may not always be of the same length; in fact, 
where there are several broadcasting stations in the 
same locality, it is customary for them to send on 
waves of different lengths. To listen in, it is necessary 
to have the receiving set tuned to the correct wave 
length. 

Receiving Apparatus —The essential parts of a re¬ 
ceiving station are the antenna or aerial, ground 
connection, receiving set, and telephone receivers, or 
phones. The electro-magnetic waves are intercepted 
by the aerial and transmitted in an electric current to 
the primary coil of the receiving set. When the sec¬ 
ondary coil has been put in resonance with the primary 

73 



coil, the induced current will pass on to the detector. 
The detector will rectify the current, or transform it 
from high frequency to low frequency, which will 
operate the phones, and the magnetic waves which 
were received by the aerial become audible to the ear. 

Aerial or Antenna: The aerial is a wire or combi¬ 
nation of wires suspended in the air thirty 
or more feet from the ground. This wire 
should be insulated at both ends from the 
objects supporting it, and is connected to the 
set by means of lead-in wire. The length 
of the aerial varies with the locality, but it 
should range around 100 feet under ordinary 
conditions. The ground connections are very 
important, and a feasible method that gives 
satisfactory results is to make use of the 
water pipe. Scrape the pipe to remove paint 
or corrosion and solder the ground wire to it. 
In connection with all sets a lightning switch, 
or arrestor, should be used between the an¬ 
tenna and the outside ground connection. 
This can be made by driving a pipe into the 
ground from 3 to 6 feet, and then fastening 
the wire to it. 

Crystal Sets, Tube Sets: So.many types and va¬ 
rieties of receiving sets are now in use that 
it is impossible to give a summary of them 
all. They may, however, be roughly divided 
into two classes, namely crystal sets and 
tube sets, although crystals are sometimes 
used, as detectors, in tube sets. A crystal set 

74 





■RADIO' 

•AERIALS ^SYMBOLS 


Leadin , 

Same as antenna- 






•CAGE-AERIAL* 



( forcelain-Tube 
3r Leodin Slrap- 

//^LioWnino-'SvvifcIi on- 
Approved Arresfer 

dnside Ground . 
-Walerpipe or- f?adjafor- 

'Oulside Ground ^4 Wire 


•TWO WIRE-AERIAL* 



Lead in- 


Ppe driven inlo Ground- f 


•KEY* 

• TO 

•SYMBOLS* 


-CONNECTION- connection 

3 VACUUM 
—§ TUBE ( 


•no- 


AERIAL 

SYMBOL 


RESISTANCE, | ’INDOOR' or 


LOOP 

SYMBOL 




•COIL TUNING-COIL- 





.LOOP-AERIAL 

Voodframe- 

Dowel Rods • 


E)lock 5 | ^Base lo M Square- 

, . PHONES-P^- , (VARDCOUPLER 

nxED 4 ^ w V. 

*pO 


CRYSTAL 

DETECTOR 


GROUND 

—1|||||— S CONDENSER 1 ^ SWITCH-p 

- f ^ A 

•5“ BATTERY- 



- u _ - . = K VARIOMETER 

A BATTERY T 3= VARIABLE \ GR|D | - 1 JW 

'CONDENSER 1 ° |V A k ^VARIABLE -fi 


VARIOMETER 

LEAK <r VARIA&LE RESISTANCE 


75 
















































consists of a tuning coil, detector, phones and 
phone condenser, and often a variable con¬ 
denser. The simple type of tube set contains 
a vario-coupler, variable condenser, tube, 
A-battery, B-battery, rheostat, and phones. 

Phones: The phones used in radio are similar in 
construction to those on the telephone, but 
are made with a headband to hold them over 
the ears. Two wires connect them to the set. 


76 



Single Circuit Set 

The simplicity of the set here shown, as well as the 
ease of construction, makes it the ideal set for the 
radio novice to attempt. No great knowledge of radio 
is needed to start with, and by following the directions 
carefully, a successful set will result. 

Few parts are required, and the ear phones are the 
most expensive part of the set. In buying the phones it 
is advisable to get a good pair, for the cheaper ones are 
apt to be defective. 

This set requires but one small coil of wire, and this 
‘‘ tuning coil ’ ’ should be made first. An empty salt box 
about 3" in diameter will do to wind the wire on. Punch 
two holes %" apart and from the edge of the box. 
Pass one end of the wire down through one hole and 
up through the other. Leave about 1" of wire sticking 
out and start winding. Wind the wire on tight and 
smooth, until approximately 100 feet of wire are 
wound on the tube, then fasten the opposite end in the 
same manner, leaving about 6" of wire showing. Fasten 
to the base, which should be 7"xl2", as shown, with the 
wooden strip held down with blued round-head screws. 

Cut the contact switch from a strip of spring brass. 
This switch moves back and forth across the coil to 
regulate the wave length by increasing or decreasing 
the number of turns of the wire in the circuit. Fasten 
a composition knob near one end to serve as a handle. 
Fasten with a brass screw to the base in a central po¬ 
sition in front of the coil. Kemove, with a sharp knife, 
the covering from the wire where the switch will touch. 
Fasten the crystal holder in position and mount the 
binding posts properly. 


77 



Trace out the wire connections from the drawing 
and make them, using annunciator wire. Scrape the 
covering from the coil wire when making the connec¬ 
tion to it. 

Fasten the phone condenser between the phone 
binding posts. 

Make sure that there is a good contact at all joints. 

When ready to try out the set, fasten the aerial wire 
to the aerial binding post, and do the same with the 
ground wire. Place a good crystal in the crystal 
‘ ‘ cup. ’ ’ Move the contact switch about 1" from the 
end of the coil opposite to where the connection was 
made. Then move the “cat’s whisker” over the sur¬ 
face of the crystal until a sensitive spot is found. Now 
move the switch back and forth until the sound comes 
in with maximum strength. By moving the switch con¬ 
tact, any of the local broadcasting stations can be 
brought in, if they are on the air. 


78 



■SINGLE-CIRCUIT-SET 


© Wood • Base12” 
©Crystal-Detector 
(D Aerial binding Post- 
® Ground Bincli no Fbst- 
©Coil s 

©Contact-Switch- 
© Phone Binding- Posts* 



•SCHEMATIC DRAWING* 


WIND COIL WITH 



79 























Cabinet Crystal Set 

This cabinet is adapted for use either with a one- 
coil set or with a two-circnit hook-np. It resembles 
the cabinets in which the more expensive tube sets are 
mounted and is trim and neat in appearance. 

TJse an oatmeal box or a salt box and wind on 
evenly and snugly 70 turns of No. 22 wire, leaving a 
six-inch piece projecting at the end. Leave a half-inch 
space, then make 70 turns more. This coil should have 
the long piece of wire at the beginning of the coil. 
There is no connection between the coils. The first 
coil is the primary, and the second coil is called the 
secondary. 

To permit easy assembling, the base of the cabinet 
should be fastened with screws. Mount the coil to the 
base with a wooden strip held down with screws as 
shown. In one end of the cabinet fasten the aerial and 
ground binding posts. The crystal holder is mounted 
on the top near one end and convenient for adjusting. 

The switches are made of spring brass and are 
mounted so that they can be moved freely, one over 
the surface of each coil. Where the switch touches, 
scrape the covering from the wire. 

Now connect (on the inside) with bell wire the 
aerial binding post with the first switch. The end of 
the primary coil is connected to the ground binding 
post. The second switch is connected to one of the 
phone binding posts. The other phone binding post 
is connected to the crystal receptacle. The wire from 
the beginning of the secondary coil is run through a 
hole in the top piece and attached to the other crystal 
binding post. 


80 




81 



















































One-Tube Set 

A one-tube set made according to the diagram is 
very efficient and will give gratifying results. It need 
not be very expensive, as a good-looking cabinet can 
be built in the shop and the parts assembled in it. 

The main parts needed for the set are: Vario- 
coupler, 43 plate variable condenser (Vernier attach¬ 
ment), grid leak, grid condenser, rheostat, variometer, 
tube W-D-ll (if a dry cell is used), dry cell battery 
(A), 22^-volt battery (B), phones, and accessories, 
such as binding posts, bus wire, and brass screws. Buy 
good quality parts, because they are the cheapest in 
the end. 

Lay out the panel very accurately before boring for 
the instruments. Use a punch to locate the center for 
the drill. This will prevent the drill from staggering. 
A grill is located in the panel directly in front of the 
tube, so that one may see when it is glowing. 

Make all connections very carefully, for one wire 
misplaced will throw out the whole set. Connect the 
A and B batteries as shown. Use as little soldering flux 
as possible, but solder every joint tight. 

Mahogany cabinets are very pleasing and will fit in 
well with the furniture at home. Endeavor to secure a 
good finish. After the stain has been applied and has 
had sufficient time to dry, apply a coat of thin orange 
shellac. Allow time to dry and sand down with No. 00 
sandpaper. Apply another coat of shellac and repeat 
the sanding. A last coat of shellac rubbed down well 
with an oily cloth and fine pumice stone will give a 
deep, satin-like finish. 


82 




83 




























IV. CONCRETE 

Present-Day Use —Because of the almost universal 
use of concrete, this has rightly been called an Age of 
Concrete. On every hand we see indications of its use 
—and they are manifold—concrete roads, bridges, 
dams, and buildings; concrete posts, flower boxes, 
porches, and walks; benches, curbs, and driveways in 
the city; and in the country silo foundations, feeding 
floors, and watering troughs. And every year adds to 
its uses. Only a few years ago building with concrete 
in winter was thought impossible, but now the difficul¬ 
ties have been largely overcome, and big building con¬ 
struction goes on summer and winter, in spite of heat 
and cold. 

Concrete, Mortar, Stucco —The problems in this 
book deal with concrete, which is a mixture of cement, 
sand (called fine aggregates), gravel (called coarse 
aggregates), and water. We frequently hear persons 
speak of “cement walks,’’ or “cement steps,” but this 
is wrong, for cement is but a small part of the com¬ 
position. Two other common mixtures of cement are 
mortar, which is composed of sand, cement, hydrated 
lime, and water; and stucco, which is also composed of 
the same materials in different proportion, often with 
the addition of hair or fibre. Mortar is used in laying 

84 


up brick and concrete block walls, and in facing con¬ 
crete. Stucco is growing in popularity as an exterior 
finish on houses, because of its permanence and beauty. 

Mixtures —The mixture of concrete depends on the 
purpose for which it is to be used. A bag of cement 
contains one cubic foot, so this is used as a measuring 
unit. Cement is always the smallest quantity in a for¬ 
mula and is mentioned first; sand is second, and the 
coarse aggregates last. Thus a 1:3:6 mixture would 
contain one bag of cement, three cubic feet of sand, and 
six cubic feet of gravel. 

The four most commonly used mixtures are: 

Eich Mixture—1 part cement, 2 parts sand, 3 
parts coarse aggregates (used for concrete 
roads and water-proof structures). 

Standard Mixture—1 part cement, 2 parts sand, 

4 parts coarse aggregates (for reinforced 
work, floors, roofs, columns, arches, etc., and 
for tanks, sewers, and conduits). 

Medium Mixture—1 part cement, 2 y 2 parts sand, 

5 parts coarse aggregates (for foundations, 
walls, abutments, piers, etc.). 

Lean Mixture—1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 6 
parts coarse aggregates (for all mass con¬ 
crete work, large foundations, backing for 
stone masonry, etc.). 

Forms and Reinforcing —In order to have the con¬ 
crete harden in the desired shape, a mould or form 
must first be constructed, having this shape. These 
forms are generally made of planed wood and, before 

85 



being used, are oiled to prevent the concrete from stick¬ 
ing to them. The forms should be made so that they 
can easily be removed when the concrete has hardened. 
They should never be removed until the concrete has 
thoroughly hardened. The hardening process depends 
considerably on the weather, as heat hastens and cold 
delays it. Where it is desired to make the concrete 
extra strong, as in cases where tensile stresses are to 
be encountered, reinforcing is used. This reinforcing 
consists of steel rods or heavy wire mesh. For small 
work, wire strands or wire mesh may be used. 

Mixing —Concrete mixing for small jobs is done by 
hand, but on large jobs a concrete mixing machine, run 
by an engine, is employed. When mixing by hand, 
measure on the mixing platform the correct amounts 
of sand and cement, and turn over with a short- 
handled, square shovel until it is thoroughly mixed. 
Then spread out and add the coarse aggregates. Mix 
again thoroughly, and then add a small quantity of 
water. Continue the mixing, adding water, until the 
mass has a quaking consistency and has been turned 
over three or four times. Do not let it stand longer 
than 30 minutes before placing in the forms . 

Finishing —The forms should be well constructed 
of smooth boards, in order to insure a good finish. 
Always oil the form before pouring the concrete, as 
this helps to prevent the concrete from sticking and 
makes it easier to clean the form. Working a spade up 
and down and back and forth between the concrete and 
the form will insure a good surface free from voids or 
pockets. After removing the surplus concrete with a 
straight-edged board called a strike-board, finish the 
86 



exposed surface with a wooden float, if a level, sandy 
surface is wanted. A steel trowel will bring cement to 
the surface and make a very smooth surface. The con¬ 
crete can also be smoothed after the form is removed 
by rubbing with the wooden float, using sand and water 
freely, or by using a carborundum block and water. 
This last method gives a very satisfactory finish. A 
mortar facing can be applied, after removal of the 
form, by drenching the surface to be finished with 
water and then, in about thirty minutes, brushing it 
with a thin cream made of cement and water. Directly 
after this preparation, trowel the mortar facing on 
the concrete to a smooth surface. The surface should 
be sprinkled twice a day with water, for about ten 
days, to prevent too rapid drying. 


87 



Concrete Flags for Garden Walk 

These stones, or flags, make a quaint little garden 
path when spaced about six inches apart and sur¬ 
rounded by grass. They offer much the same problem 
as would be encountered in making a walk, but are of 
such size as to be easily made in the shop. Interest 
in the problem is assured because of the present-day 
vogue for walks of this type. 

A water pail makes e convenient unit of measure 
for shop work, and it thus serves two purposes. A 
small mixing board that fits on the bench is very 
practical. 

The drawing shows clearly the construction of the 
form, which should be made with very tight joints, 
otherwise much cement would leak out with the water. 

Use a 1:2:3 mixture, not too wet, and tamp it down 
well. The coarse aggregates should consist only of 
small pebbles. 

Remove the surplus with a strike-board. Trowel the 
surface with a wooden float. Allow at least twenty-four 
hours for drying before removing from the form. 


88 



CONCRETE ELAQS 


Q/'or* 

GARDEN PATH 



‘TOP-VIEW^ FORM- 



te 


ll 



'5E.CTION- 


89 




































































































Teapot Stand 


A concrete stand for tea and coffee pots is very 
practical and attractive. 

The form here shown is hexagonal with four legs, 
but the project permits of great range in both design 
and finish. It would be interesting to work out one’s 
own ideas along this line. 

Notice that a slight bevel is made on the inside of 
the legs to facilitate removal from the form. 

If it is desired to have a colored stand, colors may 
be purchased and mixed in with the regular mixture, 
which for this project should be 1:2. The coloring mat¬ 
ter, however, should not be more than 10 per cent by 
weight of the cement used, because more would weaken 
the mixture. 

The following colors will give results as listed 
below: 

Lampblack—Gray or Slate 
Eed Iron Oxide—Pink, Red 
Brown Iron Oxide—Brown 
Yellow Ochre—Green, Buff 
Burnt Umber—Pink, Chocolate 
Prussian Blue—Blue 

There are also special concrete paints on the market 
which come in handy to decorate a problem. 

After twenty-four hours, remove the stand from the 
form and immerse in water. Leave there for four or 
five days, by which time it will be hard enough for use. 


90 



•TI1A POT' 
•STAND' 

•FORM- 





91 
















































































































































Shoe Scraper 

If you make a scraper like this one and place it near 
the steps, you won’t need to worry about tracking mud 
into the house, for it will he a constant reminder to 
you to clean your shoes and will help you to do it. 

Make the form from %" or 1" material with dressed 
surfaces. Fasten one side piece on with screws so that 
the project can easily he removed from the form. 

A decorative touch is added and the appearance 
improved hy fastening a strip of moulding around the 
inside of the form at the top, as shown. Miter the 
corners of the strips very accurately. 

An old hoe will serve admirably for a scraper, in 
case a suitable one can not he readily bought. 

Mix the concrete and pour in about a 2" layer. Hold 
the scraper in place and pour in the rest of the con¬ 
crete, tamping it down well around the scraper. 

After removing from the form, embed in the earth 
about two inches, close to the walk, and try it out the 
first muddy day. 


92 



'SHOE.- 

■SCRAPER 1 



•TOPVIEW/rOf?M' 



•One-5ide/|i sp\ . ~ /^^^Ud.Srrri p,>p. 

•rasfenedwifh- t, s 'S/S9'j ^ nMouldin ^ 




SECTION’A-E) 
































* Garage Door Stop 

On a windy day, when something is needed to hold 
the garage doors open, Dad will be thankful to have a 
pair of these stops. They are neat in appearance and 
serviceable. 

The form can be made without the use of a band¬ 
saw, for the curves can be cut with a chisel and 
smoothed up with a file and sandpaper. 

No embellishments are shown on the drawing but, 
by modifying the form somewhat, a design or panel 
might be worked in on either side if desired. 

The two sides are made 5" wide by 6" long and hold 
the form in position for pouring. For convenience the 
form is poured with the curved side down, the open 
surface being the bach of the stop. If the part of the 
form called the “front” in the drawing is fastened 
on with screws, it will make removal from the form 
much easier. 

Make the mixture 1 part cement to 3 parts of clean, 
well-graded sand. Mix thoroughly while dry and then 
add water, continuing the mixing until the mass has a 
plastic consistency and is uniform in color. 

After removing it from the form, place in water to 
harden thoroughly. 

To make a smooth surface, sprinkle dry cement over 
the form after taking it from the water, and then rub 
the cement in well with a scrubbing brush. 


94 



•GARAGE DOOR' 
■STOP’ 



■TOP VIEWOT FORM' 


■Eronl 
•fastened- 
•fo form 
•with screw 



• form madeo^ %’• slock- 
G/topcostin-this-posilion ~ 



e/ECTIONALVIE.W' 


95 






















Box for Bulbs 


An attractive water-proof container for water¬ 
growing bulbs is here shown. It involves more difficult 
form and construction than the preceding problems and 
necessitates reinforcing in order to make a sturdy job. 

The ends of the box slope in, while the sides are 
straight. The ornamental edging around the top is 
made by cutting a rabbet around the top edge of the 
outer form. Panels are made of stock and nailed 
solidly in place on the form. 

The inner form, called the core, is held in place by 
a brace nailed across the top, which is also nailed to 
the form to hold the core in place. Reinforcing consists 
of y%' galvanized rabbit-wire, shaped in the form of a 
basket, to fit half-way between the core and the form. 
The form should be held together with screws, and held 
in place on the bottom by cleats fastened on the bot¬ 
tom, as shown. 

When the form and core are ready, mix the concrete 
1 part cement to 2 parts sand. Pour a layer of concrete 
into the bottom of the form, then press the reinforcing 
basket into position. Add more concrete, tamping well 
into the corners. Fix the core in place, and fill up the 
sides with concrete, using a sharp-edged wooden pad¬ 
dle to work the concrete in and force the particles of 
coarse aggregates away from the outer walls, thus 
making sure of a smooth surface. 

Exercise a great deal of care in removing the box 
from the form. After air drying for a short time place 
in water and let it remain there three or four days. 


96 



•£>OX- 

©/br- 

•£>ULE>&- 



•SIDE PANEL END PANEL - 


• TOP VIEW s- 1 ' FORM- 




II u,» 1 

Lzr 













11“ <0 





II 





o 

lio 

Brace b hold-Cor 

ein- 

dac 



o 



j Core^^-Slock 

7 






i 

f 






V.. ■ i . 




7 /s D slock/or- form -J 





• SIDE SECTION- ■ END SECTION- 


97 












































Concrete Jardiniere 

A concrete jardiniere filled with plants or shrubs 
adds much to the beauty of lawn or porch, and a pair 
of them at the entrance to a house is especially pleas¬ 
ing. The illustration shows how panels add to the 
effect, but none are shown on the working drawing as 
it is expected that each boy will wish to plan his indi¬ 
vidual design. 

The construction is somewhat similar to that of the 
box for bulbs but, as this form is much the larger, 
screws are not used to hold the parts together, cleats 
and braces being used instead. 

The cleats are fastened with nails or screws to the 
bottom piece, to hold the lower ends of the ends and 
sides in place. They are also nailed to the sides to 
hold the ends in place. 

Braces, nailed across the top, hold in position all 
of the parts, including the core. 

A dowel rod run up through the bottom makes a 
drain hole and also helps to hold the core an equal 
distance from the sides and ends. 

Three-fourth-inch half-round rods are nailed on the 
inner walls of the form about 1" down from the top 
edge. This makes an ornamental border around the 
top edge of the jardiniere. 

It is well to make a reinforcing frame of square 
mesh, galvanized wire embedded in the concrete. 

To remove from the form, gently tap the bottom 
loose. Pull the dowel out. Kemove the braces from 
the top, and very carefully take off the sides and ends. 

Keep the jardiniere protected' for several days be¬ 
fore using, and wet down twice a day. 

98 



•CONCRETE.- 
JARDINIERE.- IJP 

^deals }ohold‘ Ends inplgce* 


© brpce^otiot^Tdes^in^ )1 g< 


mo\j-. 

round* rod*. r — r 
Corners- mitered*^ 



•cleallo’ 

hold • Ends 
siqesir 
place- 


SECTION* 


99 






































V. SHEET-METAL 

Skill Plus Knowledge —Sheet-metal is a subject of 
never-failing interest to those engaged in working at 
it. It requires a considerable knowledge of pattern 
drafting, and every job brings up new problems which 
make it a fascinating as well as a remunerative occu¬ 
pation. Metals and their properties and character¬ 
istics, what metals are best suited for various purposes, 
the action of weather on metals, what a flux is and why 
it is used, how to cut -the metal to make objects of all 
descriptions,—these suggest only part of the informa¬ 
tion that must be figuratively at the fingertips of the 
expert metal worker. 

Various Branches —The field of sheet-metal work, 
already very broad, is constantly enlarging. A few of 
the better known occupations include roofing and 
cornice work, ventilation systems, blowpipe systems, 
metal ceiling work, hot air furnace systems, making 
of metal containers, etc., and the building of automobile 
bodies. 

Fluxes and their Use —The ability to run a seam in 
a workmanlike manner can only be acquired through 
persistent practice. Solder will not adhere to dirty 
or corroded surfaces, so remember that parts to be 
100 



101 













soldered must first be cleaned. To prevent oxidization 
of the metal, an acid or a paste called a -flux is used. 
This flux is not the same for all metals, as: 

Rosin—is used for tin, bright copper and lead, 

Borax—is used for brass, 

Raw muriatic acid—is used for galvanized iron 
and zinc, 

Chloride of zinc—is used for old copper, brass, 
and galvanized iron. 

There are commercial soldering pastes on the market 
which give very satisfactory results. 

Tinning the Copper —A clean, well-tinned soldering 
copper is necessary for good work, and it is well to 
know how to re-tin the copper. First clean the copper, 
using a file. Then place it in the furnace to heat. While 
it'is heating, place some solder and paste on the tin¬ 
ning brick (an ordinary building brick with a shallow 
groove dug in one surface will do). Next rub the hot 
copper on all sides in the bath, until the copper is 
properly tinned. 

Soldering —Clean the parts to be soldered by scrap¬ 
ing, and then apply some flux. Hold the joint together 
and run the seam with the heated copper lying so that 
one bevel is flat on the seam. For short seams the 
solder can be picked up by holding the copper against 
the solder, but in long jobs the solder should be held 
touching the copper just above the point. With the 
copper at the correct temperature, and the solder 
evenly applied, a smooth joint will result. 

Special Equipment —The projects listed hereinafter 
are all such as can be made from ordinary roofing tin, 
102 



or tin such as is contained in varnish or oil cans. The 
special tools needed include only a pair of tinner’s 
snips, a soldering copper, scriber and dividers, and a 
hammer. Some source of heat is necessary, such as a 
gasoline blow-torch or gas furnace. The parts can be 
folded and bent to shape on an anvil or a heavy block 
of wood, using a mallet to pound with. These problems 
provide experience in laying out a pattern, cutting to 
shape, and soldering (both tacking and running 
seams); and you will find the finished jobs all well 
worth taking home. 


103 



Cruller Cutter 

This is a good problem for a get-acquainted medium 
to the use of some metalworking tools, and practice in 
various operations. If made in a shop equipped with 
sheet-metal tools, such as folding and burring ma¬ 
chines, the round part will, of course, be built up; but 
in the shop where the only tools available are tin snips, 
dividers, mallet, and soldering iron, the procedure here 
described will give the best results. 

Secure from home a clean can about the size and 
diameter of the large size evaporated milk cans. Care¬ 
fully cut one end from the can, leaving 1 y 2 " of the side 
of the can fastened thereto. This gives the body part 
of the cutter. 

Now lay out the pattern for the handle. Cut out 
and fold over the edges except the part near the 
ends. Curve the handle in an arc to fit the cutter, and 
solder in place. 

Cut out a strip of tin 1 T 5 /' wide and 3%" long, and 
bend into a 1" circle, with the ends overlapping. Eun 
solder along the seam thus formed. Locate the center 
of the cutter and place this piece in position. Tack 
down securely with solder. 

Wipe oft any surplus acid or paste, and polish the 
cutter with fine emery cloth, and you now have ready 
to take home a sturdy cruller cutter of which Mother 
may justly be proud. 


104 




105 






















Match Box 

A match strike and holder made of tin will be just 
the thing to take home. Hang it up near the kitchen 
stove or gas range and it will save many steps. 

Select a piece of tin large enough and, with steel 
rule, dividers, and scratch awl, lay out the pattern. 
With the tin snips cut out the pattern. Shape the lower 
part which holds the matches, and solder the bottom 
to the sides. Be sure to wipe off, with a bit of waste, 
any flux or acid left after the soldering, as it has a 
tendency to corrode and eat away the metal. 

Cut a piece of sandpaper 2y 2 " x 2%". Fold the 
flaps over and slide the sandpaper into place. Place on 
an anvil or hard block of wood, and bend the flaps 
all the way over so that they hold the sandpaper. Find 
the center lengthwise of the back and, %" down from 
the top, drill a tV' hole to hang it up by. 


106 



MAOBOX' 


•With • Sandpaper- Si ri k 


cr 




107 
































Wall Sconce 

A wall sconce makes a decorative problem for sheet- 
metal work; and Mother would, no doubt, be glad to 
have a pretty one to hang up in some room at home. 

Lay out, on a piece of not too heavy tin (a gallon 
oil can will furnish more than enough for the problem) 
the larger pattern shown. Cut out with the tin snips, 
and then bend as shown by the dotted lines. Use a 
mallet and the bench vise, or a small anvil if one is 
available. 

The top parts of the front and sides are folded 
completely over so that the edge will be smooth. Bend 
the flaps on the front piece to the outside of the sides, 
and those on the side pieces to the outside of the back. 
Solder the joints, doing a neat job. 

Bend a 3" piece of tin, 1" wide, into a circle, allow¬ 
ing the ends to overlap about *4". Solder this seam. 
Locate the center of the tray and solder this candle 
holder in place. 

Drill a hole near the top of the back, for hanging 
the sconce. Now curve the upper part of the back 
slightly to the front, as illustrated. This deflects the 
smoke of the candle from the wall. 

The sconce should be enameled in colors to suit 
the room in which it is to be hung. A simple stencil 
design will add to its attractiveness. 


108 



•WALL SCONCE- 






PATTERNS 
CANDLE HOLDER 


109 






































Letter Holder 


A letter holder with a place for a calendar pad is a 
great convenience on the desk. It is a handy place to 
put letters that need to be answered, and the calendar 
is right where it can readily be seen. 

Cut two pieces, like the pattern shown, from a piece 
of tin. Cut out the holder also. A piece of wood 1 
wide x 5" long, with chamfered ends, serves as a base. 
Bend the holder to shape and solder in place, making 
a smooth seam. Then fasten the two pieces to the base 
by using nails or small round head screws. 

Colors for the finish are of course optional. Auto¬ 
mobile enamels always give a satisfying finish. 

If you do not wish to use the calendar holder, it is 
a good scheme to plan a design and paint it on the 
front and back, after the enamel finish has had suffi¬ 
cient time to dry. 


no 






111 














































Rolling Blotter 

This rolling blotter can be made as a companion 
piece to the letter holder. Practically all desk sets now 
include a blotter of this type. It is ornamental as well 
as useful, if made right and finished with care. 

Get out to shape the parts required. Fold the side 
edges of the handle completely over, and pound them 
down. Bend the top piece to shape, making two folds 
on the ends. This makes them sufficiently strong to 
hold the bottom pieces. All edges of the roller are now 
folded over and pounded down. Lastly, solder the han¬ 
dle neatly to the top piece, and the job is ready for the 
finish. 

The appearance of the blotter is enhanced if a de¬ 
sign, as suggested, is painted on either side of the 
handle. A modified form of the design might also be 
painted on the handle itself. If the blotter is to be used 
with the letter holder, the same colors and the same 
design should be used. Enamel colors work well on 
metal and give a good finish. 

When the colors are dry, cut a piece of blotting 
paper the same width as the roller, but about 
longer. Place on the under side of the roller (folded 
edges of the roller up), and fold the ends of the blotting 
paper over the ends of the roller. Bend to a smooth arc 
and insert the ends into the bends at both ends of the 
top piece. The blotter is now ready for use. 


112 




113 










































Utility Tkay 

Why don’t you make a metal tray to have at home 
in your workshop, to keep nails and screws in? Then 
when you want them you will not have to waste time 
in looking for them. If you put a handle on the tray 
you can move it from one job to another. A soldering 
iron, tin snips, rule, and scriber are all the tools you 
need. 

From the scrap box get a piece of tin large enough 
to make the tray itself, and smaller pieces for the han¬ 
dle and dividing pieces. The tray can of course be 
divided into larger or smaller compartments as you 
may decide, and the ends may be designed to suit. 

Cut out the tray and bend into shape. Solder the 
corners and the end flaps; then solder the dividing 
pieces into place in whatever arrangement you have 
decided upon. Get out the handle, folding over the 
sides so that they will not cut the hands, and then 
solder to the tray. 

The tray is now ready for use, and will be found 
well worth the time and trouble which it takes to 
make it. 

A box for fishing tackle, marbles, or relics can be 
made along this same plan. 


114 



■ UTIUTTJRAT 

'lor- Nails and 5crews‘ 

•SIDE.-DIVIDERS’ 



•Moke-one- 



. L f j 

-Make-one- 



®OPTIONALSHAPES/' or ENDS’ 


115 



































VI. ADVANCED WOODWORKING 

Tools and the Worker— By this time yon are 
familiar with the correct usage of the various tools 
and are ready to undertake more difficult problems in¬ 
volving joint construction and the accurate fitting of 
parts together. Every worker should, however, not 
only know how to use tools, but how to take care of 
them. Dull, rusty tools bespeak the careless, inefficient 
worker; while sharp, shining tools are owned by keen, 
wide-awake, skilled workers. Then, too, the small 
amount of effort required to keep tools in good condi¬ 
tion is fully repaid, for with sharp tools one can work 
faster and obtain better results. 

Saws —Saws are probably the most neglected of 
tools, because in keeping them in good order experi¬ 
ence and theory go hand in hand. Practice alone de¬ 
velops the knack of setting and filing saws to secure 
the best results. Crosscut-saws and rip-saws differ in 
the shape of the teeth and in the way they cut, and so 
of course the methods of filing them are different. The 
cutting action of the rip-saw has been compared to that 
of a chisel, while that of the crosscut-saw is likened to 
a knife. Each tooth of a crosscut-saw has a knife-like 
edge on the front and back of the tooth, but the cutting 
part of a rip-saw tooth is only on the point. 

116 


4 


Size and Set of a Saw —The size of a saw is the 
length of the blade, and the number of teeth to the inch. 
Saws with large teeth cut faster, bnt small teeth do 
finer work. In order that the saw will work through 
the wood, the teeth are “set,”—that is, one tooth is 
bent slightly to one side, the next tooth to the opposite 
side, and so on. This makes the “kerf” wider than the 
thickness of the saw blade. It is not always necessary 
to set a saw before filing it; and the set of a saw may 
vary according to whether it is to be used on green 
wood or on perfectly seasoned material. 

Filing —The teeth of the rip-saw are filed square 
across the blade, working from the handle towards the 
point. The adjacent teeth are filed from opposite sides. 
The adjacent teeth of the crosscut-saw are also filed 
from opposite sides, but the file is held at an angle of 
about 60 degrees to the blade, and pointed towards the 
toe of the saw. 

Sharpening Other Tools —In sharpening chisels, 
plane irons, or draw-knife, endeavor to keep the angle 
given the tool at the factory. Sharpening involves two 
operations: First, grinding the basil even to the cut¬ 
ting edge; and second, whetting to make the edge still 
sharper. Have the wheel of the stone turning toward 
you, and move the tool slowly from side to side. Do not 
press too hard as the iron will overheat (burn), and the 
part overheated will not hold its edge for long. In 
whetting hold the bevel or basil flat on the surface of 
the stone. Move the iron back and forth without a 
rocking motion, which would destroy the bevel. After 
whetting, a burr will be found on the back of the tool. 

117 



* 


SHARPENING TOOLS' 


•crosscut-saw 


•SHAPE. OF TEETH' 


FILING CROSSCUT-SAW 



l*%n» 

O 'RIP- j ■ 3 ? SAW- 

E 

“p 1 ^ 

0 u- 6 ° 

p 'SHAPEOFTEETH- 

§ 



FILING RIP-!! 


PLANESANDCHISELS 


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- ^ •Gnnd.S'ton 


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• Postfion n, , Mli ^) 

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SAW' 


WHETTING- 


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USING A SUP STONE- 
'ON THE DRAW-KNIFE- , 

DENCh Correct-^ 


:ln-correcf 


118 














This can be removed by placing the top of the iron flat 
on the stone and moving it back and forth a few 
times. On a plane iron the outside corners should be 
rounded very slightly in grinding. Oil is used on the 
stone to carry off the particles of steel and stone worn 
off by rubbing. To whet the draw-knife it will be neces¬ 
sary to hold it on your bench as shown in the drawing. 
Use a slip stone. 

Screwdrivers are also often neglected. The end of 
the screwdriver should be ground on a gradual taper 
towards the point, as the closer it fits into the slot of 
the screw, the better it will work. Where the point is 
ground at too sharp an angle the screwdriver will 
constantly slip out, spoiling the head of the screw and 
marring the work. 


119 



Circular Taboret 

A good-looking and sturdy taboret can be easily 
made if the drawing is followed closely and these di¬ 
rections are carefully observed. 

Get out the top, which is a circular piece 9" in diam¬ 
eter. It can be cut out with a turning-saw; or, by mak¬ 
ing a series of straight cuts around the outside of the 
line, it can be planed to shape. In planing, attention 
must be given to the direction of the grain. Chipping 
spoils the appearance and shows lack of skill. 

Get out the legs to dimensions, and plane a chamfer 
around the top as shown. Measure down 1" from the 
top, and square a line across the face of the leg. Now, 
from the line measure down %" (or the exact thickness 
of the top), and square another line across. This lo¬ 
cates the dado for the top, which should be cut *4" 
deep. The dado must be cut accurately in order to make 
a neat job. Notice that in order to have a tight-fitting 
joint it will be necessary to recess the dado further in 
an arc, to fit the circular top. 

The cross pieces are cut to size, and then joined 
at the center by a cross-lap joint—and here, too, accu¬ 
racy is essential. These pieces are held together by 
gluing, or by using a %" common No. 8 screw, driven 
from the under side. 

Where great accuracy is required it is a good plan 
to use a knife when laying out lines. Then when saw¬ 
ing, do not saw directly on the lines, but close to them, 
making the kerf in the scrap part of the wood. 

The finish will necessarily depend on the kind of 
wood used, and some thought should be given to this 
before starting the job. 


120 



/ 


CIRCULAR 

■TABORLT' 


7 /aV, 


N2IO BLUE HEAD 
l! / 2 , '5CREW5 { ? ( 


CROSSLAP 

JOINT' 


cO 


— 2 - 


h, 









121 





























































Lamp 

A lamp like this goes well with the so-called 
“craft” type of furniture. It is large enough to sup¬ 
port a two-light fixture and is very pleasing with either 
a silk or a parchment shade. 

The plane is the most important tool used on this 
job, so see to it that it is well sharpened. A sharp plane 
saves a great deal of labor with scraper and sand¬ 
paper. 

The base is a 7%" square of 1 y 2 " oak or chestnut, 
with a %" hole bored through the center. Another 
%" hole is bored from one edge of the base to meet 
the central hole. The base is then chamfered as shown. 

The post is 1%" x 1%" x The center of one 

end is found by drawing diagonals between the corners, 
and then a %" center hole is bored through the entire 
length. The chamfers, which run out about 2%" from 
the lower end, are then planed accurately. 

Make the top by squaring a piece of %" stock to 
214 ", sawing off the corners and chamfering the top 
edges. Bore with a %" hole. 

The four braces are cut from %" stock 1^" x 2%". 
The curve is cut with a coping saw. 

All the parts should be scraped and sanded before 
assembling. The post is fastened to the base by two 
screws, placed so as not to block the cord hole. The top 
is fastened in place with glue, as are also the braces. 

Any method of finishing may be used. It is usually 
best to match, as nearly as possible, the finish of the 
table on which the lamp is to stand. 

Wire and fixtures, which can be obtained at any 
electrical store, will be found to be very easy to install. 

122 




123 



































































Bird Homes 

During the early months of spring, prepare for the 
return of the birds. Nesting boxes and houses are 
gladly welcomed by them, and if the houses are prop¬ 
erly built they will return to them year after year. De¬ 
termine on the kind of bird you would like for a tenant, 
and then plan your house to suit his special needs, as 
some birds require more nesting room than others, and 
the entrance must be of a size convenient for them. 

The two bird houses shown are of unusual design, 
but exactly fulfill the requirements of their expected 
occupants. These houses may be erected on a pole or 
fastened to a tree. Either use cat guards, or fasten 
thorny branches a few feet below the house in such a 
way as to repel the birds* deadly enemy, the cat. 

Cleanliness is important. Construct the house so 
that it will be an easy matter to remove the debris of 
the previous year. In the plans shown, the bottom of 
the wren house is held in place by a single screw. When 
this screw is removed the bottom swings downward on 
nail hinges. The bottom of the bluebird house may be 
fastened in the same way. 

Ventilation is also an important feature. Bore 
several small holes on opposite sides, above the en¬ 
trance, boring upward so that rain can not drive in. 

Box lumber makes fine material for building the 
houses. The roof may be covered with tar paper or 
other roofing material. When finished, give them a 
coat of paint that is quiet in color. 

Place the houses so that they can be seen from a 
window of the house. The birds will be a never-failing 
source of entertainment and pleasure. 

124 




125 













































































Model Sailing Yacht 


Before attempting to build a sailing yacht, study 
the various types of rigging used on racing boats. If 
there is a boat yard within reach of your home, make 
it a few visits and observe the construction of the 
larger boats. Plan out just how your boat is to be, be¬ 
fore starting the actual work. 

A racing boat must be very light, so secure for the 
hull a piece of light, straight-grained wood—white pine 
is fine. Shape as desired and then clean out as much 
stock as possible from the center of the boat. The walls 
do not need to be over %" in thickness. 

Make a cover for the boat from y± stock and nail 
it on. 

Shape out the boom and mast and step the mast 
into position. 

The keel is made of galvanized iron with sufficient 
lead fastened on both sides near the bottom to keep 
the boat upright when the sails are set. 

The rudder will require a bit of thinking to make it 
work satisfactorily. 

Fasten the sail to the mast by means of small rings 
sewed to the sail. Then it can easily be raised and 
lowered. 

When ready to rig the sails, place the boat in the 
water and locate the water line. Paint the boat well so 
that it will withstand the action of the water. 

Sailing a model yacht requires considerable atten¬ 
tion to setting the sails, in order to secure the maxi¬ 
mum speed; and here again is an opportunity to or¬ 
ganize the fellows and have keen competition to decide 
the winner of the cup. 


126 




127 



























Folding Book Back 

All boys will want to make this handy folding book 
rack to pnt on their study tables at home, so that their 
books will always be in order and at hand whenever 
wanted. When the rack is not needed it can easily be 
folded and put away. 

The ends are 4" wide x 6" long, and the top corners 
are rounded. After squaring up the ends, locate a point 
on one end I 14 " from both the side and the end. Then 
with compass or dividers set at 1*4" between the 
points, place one leg of the compass on the mark and 
scribe an arc which should touch the end and the side. 
Plane to this line. Do the same to the opposite corner, 
and repeat for the other end piece. 

Next get out two pieces each y 2 f x y 2 x 6" and nail 
them near the bottom of the end pieces so that they 
extend out on each side These pieces keep the 

ends in place when the book rack is opened. 

The side pieces are of y 2 " material, 1" wide and 
16" long. As the side pieces are fastened to the ends 
by 1" No. 10 blued head screws, it will be necessary to 
bore holes through the side pieces for the shanks of 
the screws, and to bore smaller holes in the ends for 
pilot holes. It is always best to bore two holes when 
driving screws, as so doing will avoid any tendency to 
split the wood. The holes in the side pieces should be 
bored y 2 from the end. Those in the ends are 1" up 
from the bottom and in the center of the edge. 

If the pieces show surface marks use a hand scraper 
to remove them, and follow up with No. 00 sandpaper. 

For this job yellow poplar or white wood, finished 
in mahogany, will probably be most desirable. 

128 




129 










































Sturdy Camp Stool 

A folding camp stool is always useful on picnics and 
in cottage or tent. The design of this stool was sug¬ 
gested by an old Egyptian stool in the Metropolitan 
Museum of Art, New York City. Any boy who likes 
the out-of-doors will find this stool very serviceable. 

In assembling, fasten the legs to the lower pieces by 
gluing the tenons in the mortises and pinning them. 
That is, after the tenons are in place, drill a %" hole 
through the bottom piece so that it passes through the 
tenon and out the opposite side of the bottom piece. 
Cut a %" dowel or whittle a plug the thickness of the 
bottom piece. Put glue into the hole and drive in the 
peg. Fasten a top piece to one of the sides by gluing 
and using one %" No. 8 bright flat head screw to each 
joint. Place the sides together and insert the dowel 
rod through the holes which have been bored. Fasten 
the rod in place by driving brads through each of two 
legs, so that it passes through the rod. These legs 
should be from the same side, or the rod will not let 
the stool be opened and closed. Then fasten the other 
top piece in place. 

Round the top corners and edges that come in con¬ 
tact with the seating, so that they will not cut through 
the leather. Tack the seating securely on the outside 
edge of the top piece. After you have fastened it to 
one side, open the stool to the desired width, measure, 
and then fasten the material to the other top piece. 
Fasten the chain between the lower pieces as shown. 

As the stool will have rough usage, the finish should 
not be elaborate. Simply sand well and apply a coat 
of stain or paint. 


130 



•STURDY' 
•CAMPSTODL 1 


r -4 ta 




-Drillwillv 

taM- 



•DETAIL/CROSSPIECE.' j 
^j-Morfees 
•Wx 2 » 
•Deep 


nmn 


~w 


-|F* 

kN-t 


•Upholstery- «- 
•END-VIEW OPENED’ ( Tocks<Jp 

Lealfier-Seai * 


f- 

■ mONT-VIEW-CLOSED- 



LeoHier-Seal- 


-II’- 


-1^1 


Morlise-ond-lei 


- 14 ’- 


131 







































Costumer 

The costumer or hall tree is a much needed piece of 
furniture in the home, and may he utilized equally well 
in the hall, in a corner of the reception room, or in a 
bedroom. 

The construction is as follows: Plane, square, and 
cut to length a piece of wood for the upright, to be 
2" x 2" x 5' 4". A 1/4" chamfer is then planed around 
one end—the top. Each corner edge is then chamfered 
34" down to within 7" of the bottom end. The braces, 
four in number, are cut from a piece of stock 5" x 7" 
with the grain running diagonally. Care should be 
taken in laying out the braces so as not to waste stock. 
The cross-pieces are cut out each 2" x 3" x 17". Then 
pieces 1" x 2" x 3" are glued on the bottom of each end, 
as shown. This saves material, for if the pieces were 
cut from stock 4" wide, much stock would be wasted; 
and, in addition, the operation would be harder. The 
half-lap joints are next cut, and the pieces curved 
where required. 

In assembling, the bottom pieces should be cross- 
lapped and glued, then fastened to the pole or upright 
with a 6" lag screw. The braces are fastened with blued 
round head screws—two to each brace. 

It is a good plan to finish the piece before attaching 
the hooks. Stain to match the furniture in the home 
as nearly as possible. Fill with paste wood filler, and 
give two coats of shellac, rubbing down well, between 
coats, with fine, worn sandpaper. Good, serviceable, 
plain hooks can be had for about ten cents each, but 
more expensive ones are preferable, for they add con¬ 
siderably to its appearance. 

132 



COSTUMER 

_ -Bevel feinch ^^ 


•Devel /4 inch-^y» 


lUvil 

IfWl 


Cross-lapJoinL-s ^Rad 

LAY-OUT ^ CROSS 

.^PIECtS: 

Cut/rom solid stock 7 
•or-^plue ^^piece- // 

^ on 'end- / y _ J®L_ 
Bevel-ends Here}/ 




2 " 


rJL 


•yPlace-Hooks 
J here 
See lexi- 



1 


■fe' 

s<?uares- 



DETAIL 0 /BRACE* 


<\i i 

kJ-w 


Make 4' 


No-12 R H D-2 a screws 


l7 CLWfc 


133 




































































Shaving and Medicine Cabinet 

This cabinet is convenient in size and provides 
space for shaving articles, and for medicine and first- 
aid necessities. 

The construction of the cabinet proper is very sim¬ 
ple, employing only butt joints. Before assembling, 
however, plane a x %" rabbet along the back edge 
for the back piece to fit into. 

The door, which is fastened together by a slip 
mortise-and-tenon, has a rabbet planed in the back 
edge, to hold the mirror. A thin backing piece is used 
to hold the mirror in place and also to preserve the sil¬ 
vering. This backing should completely cover the back 
of the mirror. It may be fastened with small screws 
or brads. A chamfer, planed around the front edges of 
the door, near the mirror, gives a pleasing circular 
effect at the corners. A good plate glass mirror should 
be bought, as nothing is more annoying, to a man shav¬ 
ing, than a faulty mirror. 

Butt hinges set in between the door and the side 
of the cabinet are very good, but if desired a fancy 
hinge fastened on the outside may be used instead. A 
spring catch serves for fastening the door shut, but 
there are also numerous patent fasteners on the mar¬ 
ket which will answer the purpose equally well. 

For ornament a curved piece is fastened to the top 
of the cabinet. If you want to make your cabinet more 
individual, plan out for yourself another decorative 
top piece. 

The most practical and sanitary finish for the cabi¬ 
net is white enamel. Use a good grade that will not be 
affected by water splashing on it. 

134 



■SHAVING' 

■medicinTcabinlT’ 




liTi^Open Morlise- rOne inch squares 
,!l!• 1 Tartd-Tenon v -■> .__ 

te w [53 

i) l':l!| fhan widfh- b iL- 1 - 1 —L i 
‘ rail- 


iaslen 
wilhlock 
or-Spring V 

Cateh-5 


% 


-=i 


1 

ft 

% 

1 

IIII 

< n 


■Mirror • j 


4-2 


JT r 


<r> 


Dull- 
~HinOe 
\'/ 2 tt - * 


PATTERN- 

CX 01 - 

TOP-PIECE.* 


fcS 


%'pl^slock 


l|ic-^-=zl 
ijDackr 


I '| hold Mirror 1 
I [|Use ihin SlocJj 

jMJH 

ill Mirror 
ill sef in , 
ijj^Rabhei 


IG" - 


1-——- 


rV 


135 






















































































Folding Ironing Board 

Among the many useful objects that can be made 
for the home, an ironing board, which folds up, ranks 
high in popularity. Planing, squaring, sawing, boring, 
are all brought into play, and you have a chance to 
show what you can do when confronted by a real job. 

This ironing board is a good size as shown, but as 
size is a matter of individual preference, work out your 
own demensions. 

After squaring up and planing the edges of the top 
piece, draw a center line lengthwise of the board. At 
one end lay out a semi-circle, using a radius of 3%". 
Measure 22" along the edge of the board, and square 
a line across. From the 22" mark on the board, draw 
a line which will meet the circumference of the semi¬ 
circle at the diameter. Do the same from the opposite 
edge. Saw and plane to the line. 

Rip out four legs. Round one end of each. Bore the 
required number of holes. (Figure No. 4 shows the 
size and construction of the part called the axle.) The 
axleps fastened with nails or screws to the under side 
of the board, 8" from the larger end. Put the two legs, 
in which the four holes were bored, in place in the axle, 
and insert the upper and lower dowel rods. Fasten, 
using nails or glue or both. Place the other two legs 
in position and insert the center dowel rod, which 
passes through the four legs. Then finish up. 

Adjust the board to the right height from the floor, 
and fasten the stop in place, using two No. 10 1 y 2 " 
common screws. Nail braces across as illustrated. 
Sand thoroughly, and the job is ready for use. 

136 



rOLDI NQ -1 RON ING BOARD ■ 


•MATERIAL' 

©W Dowel Rods- 
©Top- 7 /a’x ir<5-o"- 
®Le©S-C4)&’*l&’«4-5' 
@Axi ez’<2’<a’ 

©Slop- r*r«5‘ 



•TOP-VIEW* fOLDED* 



137 






















Sewing Cabinet 

Mother would certainly be glad to receive as a 
Christmas or birthday gift this handsome and con¬ 
venient sewing cabinet. Large enough to contain pieces 
of plain and fancy work, and equipped with a sliding 
tray which holds buttons, thread, needles, and scissors, 
it will be of great service to a busy mother. 

This cabinet is an advanced problem in that it cov¬ 
ers so many tool operations, and brings into play all 
that has been learned about the use of tools. For this 
project it would be good practice to make patterns of 
cardboard—at least for the feet and the top piece or 
handle. These facilitate getting the job under way, and 
bring into the work a touch of factory practice. 

The two covers are fastened with 1%" narrow brass 
butt hinges set in between the cover and the top piece. 

The curves on the feet and on the top piece can be 
made with the draw-knife or turning-saw. 

The cabinet part is not made until the stand has 
been assembled, glued, and sanded. The cabinet is then 
built to fit the stand and nailed in place. 

Paint or enamel is the finish most favored in the 
present-day vogue in furniture of this type, and is one 
that always looks well. The little cabinet is especially 
attractive when enameled a blue-gray, with the stencil 
design shown, which is an old-fashioned nosegay, ap¬ 
plied in appropriate, bright colors. A black finish is 
also very good-looking, particularly when fine gold 
striping is lined around the edges and ends of the 
cover, the arch of the handle, etc. This finish can be 
made by mixing powdered lampblack with shellac, 
which gives a heavy, black gloss. 

138 



•SEWING' 

CABINET- 


Ki 


PLAN* 

c?c 

•E.ND' 





V Holes* 7 U"R t f 

Morlise-&-TenonJr 


- 15V— 


Cabinet /4" slock- 


r.--— 


Dadojoint-^ 

15' 


Hol/-LopJan^ 

" = 4 J\'. J' ” ! 

T = 1 l. in x 


•STENCIL 

DESIGN/- 

•COVER'S- 


•SIDE VIEW* 



END VIEW* 


139 




































BOOKS FOR REFERENCE 

Elementary Industrial Arts .Leon L. Winslow 

Teaching Industrial Arts .Oscar L. McMurry 

Elements of Radio Telephony ...w. C. Ballard 

Wiring for Light and Power .Terrell Croft 

Principles of Electrical Engineering .^William H. Timbie 

jVannevar Bush 

Elements of Sheet Metal Work .R. l. Welch 

Concrete Around the Home .Portland Cement Association 

Elementary Concrete Construction .Leon H. Baxter 

Educational Woodworking for School and Home .Joseph C. Park 

Elements of Woodwork and Construction *..C. A. King 

Woodworking for Secondary Schools .Ira S. Griffith 


l 


140 














RULES OF THE SHOP 


1. Walk in quietly and go to yonr own bench. 

2. Do not leave yonr bench unless to procure neces¬ 
sary tools or materials. 

3. Keep all bench tools in good condition and in their 
proper places when not in use. 

4. Report promptly missing or broken tools. 

5. Return all general tools to the tool case as soon 
as you are through with them. 

6. You may converse quietly concerning your work, 
but there is to be no general talking. 

7. Return unused pieces of lumber to the lumber rack. 

8. At the close of the period, return to the stock cabi¬ 
net all sandpaper, nails, screws, etc., not used. 

9. Do not start or use machinery without first obtain¬ 
ing permission from the instructor. 

10. Leave benches clean and in good order at the close 
of the period. 


141 



Specimen of a schedule to be made out for each 
class, and to be changed at regular intervals: 

DAILY CLEAN-UP SCHEDULE 
Industrial Arts Department 

Class. Date. 

General Foreman:. 

Duties: Responsible for order, industry, and clean-up. 

Tool Room Man:. 

Duties: Have charge of general tool case and supplies. 

Repair Man: . 

Duties: Repairing of tools and equipment. 

Helper: . 

Duties: Keep the paint table clean and in order, and the glue, 
stain, paints, etc., in their proper places. 


Sweeper: . 

Duties: Work under the foreman in keeping the shop clean 
and in order. 

Keep Your Shop a Model for Cleanliness, Order, and Industry 


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Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process. 
Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide 
Treatment Date: June 2012 

PreservationTechnologies 

A WORLD LEADER IN COLLECTIONS PRESERVATION 

111 Thomson Park Drive 
Cranberry Township, PA 16066 
(724) 779-2111 














































































